Tag: great basin

  • Nevada: What You’re Missing

    Nevada: What You’re Missing

    I admit it—I never gave Nevada more than a passing thought before George requested a birthday geocaching adventure back in 2012. With that trip, limited to the southern part of the Silver State, I had no idea the breadth of what Nevada has to offer. At least until beginning to explore it in earnest a couple of years later. Since then, I’ve criss-crossed the state exploring via car and motorcycle.

    And now I’m a resident of the 36th state. As a new Nevadan, and having discovered the virtues of the landscape here, hearing Nevada referred to as “flyover country” is my cue to explain what you’re missing. As much as I love my former home state of Georgia, the vastness to explore here is entirely different. I’m still just scratching the surface here but what I have discovered so far leaves me wanting more.

    great basin national park - val in real life
    Great Basin National Park is like the Great Smoky Mountains of the west with unparalleled ecological ​diversity.

    The Nature of Nevada

    Most of the state falls within the basin and range province which is characterized by narrow north-south trending mountain ranges with flat valleys in between. This is a result of tectonic extension, pulling the earth’s crust apart. Pretty cool, huh? Even if you’re not a former geologist.

    What that geologic activity does for the landscape is create dramatic contrasts in what is the most mountainous state in the lower 48. The elevation in Nevada ranges from 481 feet above sea level to over 13,000. Most of the state falls within the “Great Basin,” the largest desert in North America. In addition to the Great Basin, a small southern portion of Nevada falls within the Mojave desert and the western portion of the state is bounded by the Sierra Nevada mountains, including Lake Tahoe. That means you have everything from alpine ecosystems to pinion-juniper and sagebrush steppe within its massive 110,000 square miles, making it the 7th largest state in the U.S.

    In spite of being the driest state in the U.S., Nevada has a multitude of lakes, rivers, and reservoirs. Those, combined with the variety of ecosystems means Nevada is filled with wildlife, from antelope to mountain lions, desert tortoise to western diamondbacks, red-tail hawks to sage grouse, as well as wild horses. The list goes on. Of course, much of Nevada is desert and to the casual observer, it might seem a barren wasteland. Hardly! Much of our wildlife lives in the “sagebrush sea,” which is amazingly green in the spring.

    Doesn’t sound like a land of desolation, does it?

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    The iconic wild horses of northern Nevada.
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    The sagebrush sea meets the Sierra Nevada mountains.

    History

    Nevada has an eclectic history. The Nevada Territory was carved from the Utah Territory, its statehood coming a few years later as a result of the building tensions over slavery. Nevada’s slogan, “Battle Born,” reflects its birth during the Civil War.

    While the Civil War spurred Nevada’s statehood, its history spans the breadth of our understanding of human existence in North America. In fact, the oldest petroglyphs in North America are found in Nevada. And before that, it was home to creatures like mammoths and ichthyosaurs.

    Mining is what put Nevada on the map in modern times, though. And along with that boom came the characters who became legends of the wild west, including the likes of Mark Twain and the Pony Express. Not long after that sudden influx followed the railroads needed to serve the demands of mining. That connection cemented Nevada’s place in U.S. history. Sadly, the inevitable busts that accompany mining booms left once-vibrant hubs to fade into the lore of our many ghost towns.

    In recent decades, Nevada has become more known for its entertainment and casinos. Yet most of the state is still largely viewed as a wasteland. That perception led others to deem it an ideal location to test powerful weapons. In my mind, that aspect of Nevada’s history was the turning point into the modern wild west. One in which atomic bomb testing, casinos, and brothels co-exist alongside cattle ranching, wild horses, and vast wilderness.

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    Nevada was nearly uninhabited before the discovery of the Comstock Lode.

    Adventure

    Over 80 percent of Nevada is public land, largely under the care of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). It’s an outdoor adventurer’s paradise. The landscape is highly variable, more so than most people realize. Which is why Nevada gets so overlooked as an adventure destination. For those who embrace Nevada, there are lots of different ways to get your adventure on.

    The wide range of elevation, landscapes, and ecosystems provide the framework for every type of outdoor pursuit. You name it, you can likely do it in Nevada. Hiking, climbing, camping, snow sports, water sports, cycling, wildlife viewing, hunting, fishing, off-roading, and motorcycling, of course. All of that with spectacular views.

    While we have our portion of Lake Tahoe and the adventures that can be had in an alpine setting, adventuring in Nevada does mean embracing the desert. Keep in mind this is high desert or “cold” desert which means nights are surprisingly chilly. Not to worry, we’ve got a multitude of hot springs for you to warm up in, thanks to the geology here.

    We do have one national park to claim as our own, Great Basin. The ecosystem and landscape diversity in the park is nothing short of astonishing. And yet it’s the least-visited park in the U.S. in spite of having peaks reaching over 13,000 feet, caves, and a surprising variety of wildlife. The advantage of its remoteness is that we have a breathtaking park without the crowds.

    Add in Nevada’s growing state parks system and the opportunity for outdoor adventure of all kinds awaits. Personally, as I’ve gotten to know Nevada, I’ve found the weather to be more volatile than any place I’ve experienced to date. That makes for challenging adventures that make you think ahead.

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    Nevada hot springs soothe the weary traveler.
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    Soul-stirring motorcycling will leave you wanting to explore more of Nevada’s expanses.

    People and Places

    The people of Nevada are fiercely independent. But in a measured way; not with the bluster like Texans proclaiming their superiority. It’s a quiet confidence and friendliness with no need to posture. Maybe it’s the wide open spaces and ruggedness of the state that breeds independence in Nevadans. Living here requires self reliance.

    With only a couple of large urban areas and the vastness of the landscape, towns can be pretty sparse in Nevada. That creates a unique and quirky mix of places to embrace history and culture. Explorers, adventurers, and sight-seers have access to an array of experiences: rural ghost towns to top-notch museums, spectacular shows to hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and events spanning the range of the Cowboy Poetry Festival to motorcop competitions and Burning Man to camel races. It’s that kind of breadth that makes Nevada difficult to define. Throw in oddities like the E.T. Highway and Rhyolite and you’ll realize that a sense of humor is alive and well in Nevada.

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    Racing camels in Virginia City
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    The town of Belmont is an “almost” ghost town.

    Find out more

    If you didn’t already notice, I’m quite smitten with Nevada and what it has to offer. I’ve learned the Nevada is a land of extremes and is truly no place for wimps when it comes to the outdoors. When you embrace the ruggedness of this state, you are rewarded with amazing adventures. I hope I’ve convinced you this is no fly-over country.

    Having only discovered the wonders of Nevada in recent years, I’m hardly the go-to expert, though. To find out more, head over to the Travel Nevada website. Lots of info from the folks who know where the good stuff is.

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    Nevada will make you feel small, especially at places like Diana’s Punch Bowl, a vertical-walled hot spring so fierce, it’s not suitable for soaking.
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    Land of desolation? Think again!

    Adventure on, friends!

    Until next time, here’s some more Nevada for you.

  • Great Basin National Park

    Great Basin National Park

    My western adventure was a fairly loose mess—willy-nilly and largely unplanned. After my exit from the surprisingly wintry experience at Overland Expo, I ventured into the Silver State and moseyed my way towards Great Basin National Park, a place I’ve long wanted to visit.

    Nevada’s weather is notoriously volatile and proved it with conviction while I was there. I battled storms and chilly temperatures my entire stay. Watching the drama play out at Great Basin was captivating.

    great basin national park - val in real life
    Great Basin has so much to discover. My three days barely gave me a chance to scratch the surface of this dynamic park.

    Great Basin basics

    Great Basin National Park in eastern Nevada is one of the least-visited national parks. Just a handful of miles from the Utah boundary, the town of Baker is the gateway to the park and where you’ll find the main visitor center. I always recommend stopping into visitor centers. They are your connection to current maps, event schedules, special notices about road closures and park conditions. Take the opportunity to chat with park rangers about how best to spend your time. They are a fabulous resource.

    Created in 1986, Great Basin is home to surprisingly diverse ecosystems including desert, grassland, alpine, several types of forest communities, and a 5,000-year-old bristlecone pine forest. From about 5,300 feet above sea level at the visitor center in Baker, the park reaches up to over 13,000 feet at Wheeler Peak. That elevation span, courtesy of the basin and range geology (insert Valgasm here) of the area, is what makes for such dramatic ecology in the park. (For more info, check out these videos from the National Park Service.)

    Great Basin is also very rugged (it is Nevada, after all) with many trails climbing above 10,000 feet. High-clearance vehicles are necessary to access many areas of the 77,000-acre park. In addition to all of that, Great Basin is also home to the spectacular Lehman Caves and the famous “Parachute” shield formation.

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    Captivating glasswork at the main visitor center.
    great basin national park - val in real life
    The main visitor center is really well done with great displays to help you get to know the park.

    Lehman Caves

    Lehman Caves is carved from the soft limestone of the Snake Range and is a great choice if you have limited time at the park. The cave tours cover largely smooth, paved surfaces, although the terrain can be slippery at times and there some narrow passages. That just how caves work. They’re wet, dark, cold, and often narrow.

    There are lots of handrails to help and even though I was edgy about it on Frankenleg, I made it through just fine. Due to the delicate nature of the caves there are limits on what visitors can bring on the tours. You’ll want a coat, a handheld camera, and a flashlight or headlamp. No backpacks, food or drink, or tripods allowed.

    There are a couple of different cave tours to chose from. I took the Grand Palace Tour and really enjoyed it even though I’m not really much of a cave enthusiast. It’s a well-done tour and I appreciated the balance of humor, seriousness, and information that appealed across age ranges. With my experience in becoming a Certified Southern Appalachian Naturalist I know that creating a good interpretive program is a lot harder than it seems. Congratulations to the park service on their work here.

    And if you’re a geocacher don’t forget to nab the earthcache there. It’s excellent. Look it up before you take the tour so you can be sure to gather all of the information you need, although it isn’t necessary to take the tour to complete the cache.

    The Lehman Visitor Center has a cafe, gift shop, and restrooms to make your visit more comfortable.

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    Our ranger giving us the low down before entering the caves.
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    The famous parachute shield in Lehman Caves.

    Mather Overlook

    For many park visitors, a scenic drive is all they’re after or all they have time for. The drive to Mather Overlook from the park entrance delivers some spectacular views and insight into the landscape of the park.

    The overlook is named for Stephen Mather, the first director of the National Park Service, and offers a view of Wheeler Peak as well as a grand vista across Snake Valley. The overlook area is equipped with a picnic table, viewing scopes, and vault toilets. While I was there I attempted some time-lapse photography until incoming snow urged me back to the warmth of camp.

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    My hopes of capturing a sunset time-lapse at Mather Overlook ended with me scurrying back to camp in the snow.

    Baker Creek

    The Baker Creek area is what made me fall in love with Great Basin National Park. Accessible by a well-maintained gravel road, the area offers campgrounds and hiking trails sprinkled in aspen and pine forests. This is where I had virtually all of my wildlife encounters.

    I took a small hike up the trail towards Baker Lake. Battling inclement weather, a late start, and a gimpy leg, I didn’t quite make it all the way there but what I did manage was excellent. It was a beautiful ascent through aspens to a meadow with a creek that was steaming as the sun broke through after a heavy rain.

    Pressing further into the pine woodlands I had to traverse some snow patches before deciding I couldn’t make the whole loop and turning back. A couple of hefty jolts on Frankenleg as I slipped on the snow reminded me I still have substantial limitations and I needed to be cautious. Yet in the midst of that the beauty was startling. So I danced between navigating the difficulties of my situation and allowing myself to be enveloped by this remarkable place.

    For me, and many other hikers on the trail that day, the basic maps the park service gives away are somewhat confusing. They just don’t seem to jibe with the actual trails some of the time. At first I thought it was just me as I whipped out my compass to take bearings but everyone else I encountered was having the same issues. There are more detailed maps available for sale at the visitor center and, for this park, I highly recommend them even in the case of short, seemingly simple, hikes.

    great basin national park - val in real life
    My hike on the Baker Creek trail was my first real one since January’s crash left me learning how to walk again. Inclement weather almost kept me from trying. Very glad I did.
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    A stunning hike was well worth the challenges.
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    On Baker Creek Road, I got some time to enjoy watching these two until a pickup speeding down the road the other direction scared them off.

    Upper Lehman Creek Campground

    I arrived at Great Basin National Park much later in the day than I had hoped to. I was tired. A storm was pushing in. And it takes me a lot longer to set up camp than it used to. I didn’t have time to explore the different campground options, so I just dove into Upper Lehman Creek Campground, found a site, and pitched my tent.

    There are 22 campsites, with a wide variety of shapes and sizes, tucked into the trees along Upper Lehman Creek. I loved the privacy the trees provide. The campground was surprisingly full when I arrived but I managed to find a site that I could cram my large tent on. There are larger sites that would have more easily accommodated the “condo” but they were occupied.

    These are basic sites with picnic tables and fire rings. The campground has vault toilets, trash cans, and recycling disposal. Water is only available seasonally and was still turned off during my visit in late May. Fortunately, my inquiry with a ranger pointed me toward a water spigot at the Lehman Visitor Center where I could refill my containers.

    It turned out to be really nice camping. During my stormy visit, brief breaks in the cloud cover delivered great starwatching. And, in my book, there’s nothing better than camping with the lullaby of a babbling creek.

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    Campsite #5 at Upper Lehman Creek was secluded and cozy.
    upper lehman creek campground - val in real life
    Facilities at the campgrounds include vault toilets, trash and recycling disposal, and seasonal water supply.

    Other options

    There are a few campgrounds to choose from at Great Basin National Park. Now having a better feel for the park, I will most definitely camp at Baker Creek next time. Upper Lehman Creek was quite nice but Baker Creek just appeals to me more. The area feels more intimate and connected to the landscape.

    As I mentioned, this is a very rugged park. Many areas are closed much of the year due to snow. And there are large swaths that are only accessible by high-clearance vehicles regardless of the time of year. If you have that type of vehicle, the opportunities in this park expand exponentially.

    Great Basin offers a broad, deep, and wide selection of hikes. Short or long, easy or challenging, you should be able to find something that suits your style, mood, or the day’s conditions. When I saw what was available I was nearly overwhelmed by the choices. Then my reality check set in and I realized my personal situation left me with only a couple of options. Between the inclement weather, the road to Wheeler Peak still closed for the season, and Frankenleg only being good for a few miles, I was left with tackling a small section of the trail to Baker Lake. But there is so much more I look forward to exploring on my next visit.

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    The drive up Wheeler Peak Road provides a dramatic view of the valley.

    Things to know

    As you can imagine, cell signal is spotty in this remote park so make sure you’re not relying on it.

    And Baker, Nevada is a very small town. There are a couple of lodging, eating, and supply options but don’t expect huge choices and vast quantities.

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    The mint-green aspens in the fog along Baker Creek Road were breathtaking. And where I began to understand Great Basin National Park.

    Val’s view

    Great Basin National Park is well worth a visit. Its remoteness means it is often overlooked. That’s a shame. The diversity and opportunities here are akin to my beloved Great Smoky Mountains and the marvels of Death Valley National Park. Without the crowds.

    Personally, the Baker Lake hike was a huge challenge for me but I consider it a success on many levels. The weather during my visit was also challenging. But I saw improvements in my abilities so that also counts as a win.

    Those challenges impacted my photography and my ability to capture the magnificence of this special place. I’ll just have to go back and try again. Until then, you can check out what I did manage to capture in my Great Basin Zenfolio album.

    And in the meantime, here’s a little video of my time at Great Basin National Park. Enjoy!