My Tremont family: Sue, Steve, and Tom, my late macro lens, and maybe an extra-large beer for commiseration purposes.
At the Tremont workshops (both spring and autumn), I’m notorious for my love of macro work and penchant for wallowing in the dirt for shots of the micro-worlds of the Great Smoky Mountains. It’s my photographic wheelhouse, so-to-speak. To a fault.
So imagine my panic when I got into the field at this year’s workshop and I realized my macro lens wouldn’t focus! I was a figurative deer-in-the-headlights to say the least and there may have been some minor hyperventilating. As my initial bewilderment subsided, it dawned on me—I’d dropped it off my kitchen bar a few weeks earlier in a rush to get out the door to the airport. I hadn’t ended up needing the lens for my work in that time so I completely forgot the mishap.
Sitting behind my camera in a bed of moss, I finally mustered the gumption to hold the lens to my ear and gave it a little shake. There was a heart-sinking rattle. Lenses aren’t supposed to rattle. I got up and walked in a daze towards my buddies to tell them the news. They were quite sympathetic, of course. And understood the implications for me in particular.
That night, my friends Tom and Steve tried to find a way to get a new macro lens to me so I could have something for the workshop. I was drawn into the idea at first, partly because I couldn’t imagine life without my beloved macro lens.
After some processing time though, I opted to embrace the challenge to my photography rather than scramble for a new lens. It would force me to look at my workshop experience from a new perspective and expand how I see and shoot. I convinced myself to look at my lack of macro lens as a new opportunity rather than a missed one, even though I’ll admit it took some time to fully accept.
That’s not to say I didn’t manage to use my 14-140mm zoom lens in a macro capacity in some cases. But here’s what I came away with after deciding to accept my situation and not waste a bunch of time and energy fast-tracking a new macro lens.
Soft light as the sun rises over Foothills Parkway.At Elkmont, I’m even more inclined to go macro but I pushed myself to pull back to capture bigger details of the abandoned cabins.An iconic view of Lynn Camp Prong that includes the bridge. I’ve spent most of my time in the past trying to keep it out of the shot.A different style of macro than I would shoot with my “actual” macro lens. More of an intimate landscape macro. Bluets are an iconic flower of the Smokies and the slightly larger view than I would normally shoot gives perspective to their presence.My lack of macro lens forced me to recall the joy of shooting reflections. Capturing the lush intimacy of the Smokies was quite a joy. Rounded river rocks, moss, blue sky, tall trees…Working with reflections in the abandoned cabins at Elkmont.I can’t help but dive into the beautiful micro worlds… I love the detail.Ok, so I couldn’t resist this macro situation on a morning when the landscape vista was completely obscured by fog. Can you blame me? I did take some good- natured teasing for professing I wasn’t going to be shooting macro during the workshop but ended up on the ground wallowing in the dewy grass anyway…
I did manage to spend a good bit of time in my other guilty “wheelhouse” pleasure: infrared photography. Sometimes baby steps toward change are ok, right?
Foothills Parkway after sunriseAn intimate landscape of a small cascade on Sam’s Creek… to me, this is very “Smokies”The famous Cades Cove tree bathed in fog.Seeking a new perspective sent me down a path I’d never gone before even though I walked past it countless times.Giving Sam’s Creek the infrared treatmentCades Cove fence intimate landscapeInfrared portrait of the Cades Cove tree.
And now for your moment of green…
My new perspective inspired me to shoot a panorama, a rare technique for me. Here’s to stretching your horizons.
The new visitor center at Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge.
Tucked off of the very busy Highway 93, 80 miles north of Las Vegas, you’ll find Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge. This Nevada oasis seems horribly overlooked by the cars and trucks hurtling by.
I’m sure they see it. There’s really no way to miss it. The lush landscape is a startling contrast to the Nevada desert surrounding it.
I myself have passed it by in my rush to be elsewhere. But slide off onto the access road to Upper Pahranagat Lake and the frenetic pace of the highway becomes only a distant rumble. This avian haven becomes your haven as well.
Getting started at Pahranagat…
I always recommend a stop at the visitor center in order to best acquaint yourself with the offerings. Unfortunately for me, I arrived on a Tuesday when the center was closed and would not open again until Friday when I was departing. Great timing, eh?
What I discovered when I popped in on Friday though, was a brand-new facility ready to invite visitors to discover the wonders of Pahranagat. The exhibit includes many interactive features that appeal to kids and adults alike. Much of the focus is on wildlife but the it also includes a look at human history in the area.
Like many of our public lands visitor centers, Pahranagat offers a short film you can watch to better understand the refuge before setting out to explore it. I highly recommend taking the time to watch. This is also where you can pick up brochures and guides, as well as an extensive bird list for the refuge.
The exhibit in the visitor center will give you a sense of what Pahranagat has to offer curious visitors.
Sit a spell and enjoy the film introduction to Pahranagat… while the little ones are happily coloring.
History and importance…
The desert along Highway 93 suddenly turns to a lush oasis .
Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge was designated in 1963 and straddles the boundary of the Mojave and Great Basin deserts. At over 5,000 acres, this “Valley of Shining Water” is fed by thermal springs. It is truly an oasis that is a critical stopover for migrating birds. All told, this refuge plays host to over 200 species in varying frequencies.
This diverse environment is not just for the birds, though. Because Pahranagat includes lakes, wetlands, riparian habitat, meadows, and desert uplands, you can find a variety of wildlife and plants here year-round. Everything from desert tortoises and mule deer to willows and wildflowers. Obviously Pahranagat is a popular destination for birds and its stewards manage water levels to maximize habitat for various species throughout the year.
Your explorations aren’t limited to flora and fauna. Pahranagat is also home to human history. It has been used by natives for thousands of years. Pictographs and petroglyphs can be found here as well as the Walden House, a relic of pioneer times.
Wetlands in the midst of a desert provide a vital stopover for migratory birds.
Things to do…
A walk around Upper Pahranagat lake will only take an hour or so and the terrain is not challenging.
With the natural and cultural resources Pahranagat offers, you have a lot of choices how to spend your time. While most of the action is at Upper Pahranagat Lake, don’t overlook other areas for opportunities to explore.
Because of the importance and diversity of this refuge, you’ll find something to do and see year-round.
Pahranagat’s 5,000+ acres of lakes, wetlands, and desert will give you plenty of options to explore.
A spot to rest on the west side of Upper Paharanagat Lake.
Camping…
Camping at Pahranagat. There are free back in, pull-through, and buddy sites available first-come, first-served.
There are 14 campsites nestled on the eastern banks of Upper Pahranagat Lake. They are free and first-come, first-served. They span the length of the lake, giving ample space between sites. The various sites accommodate back-ins and pull-throughs. A few are “buddy” sites that allow a larger group of visitors.
I thoroughly enjoyed my stay at Pahranagat. It’s now one of my favorite camping spots. There are a few things to keep in mind if you’re considering a visit:
There is no potable water and no electric connections.
Vault toilets are scattered along the campground but I often found them without paper since I was visiting during off-days. Fortunately I’m a seasoned camper… I always bring my own.
There are no fire pits and ground fires are not allowed.
Sites are equipped with picnic tables and hibachi grills.
This is a wetland. There are mosquitoes. Plan accordingly, especially in the dawn and dusk hours.
You will experience some road noise from Highway 93 which runs along the refuge border, above the campsites. I didn’t find it to be too obtrusive to keep me from enjoying my stay.
My view from campsite number 5. Amazing, no?
Tips and tidbits…
Gnarly old trees come to life in the fading light at Pahrangat National Wildlife Refuge.
Some other things to keep in mind for your visit:
There is a covered pavillion at the entrance.
Again, there is no potable water. Remember to bring an adequate supply, even for a day trip.
Always educate yourself on park rules. In the case of Pahranagat, it’s important to note there is no swimming allowed and no motorized boats or off-road vehicles are permitted. Refer to the Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge website for current and complete information.
If you’d like to visit but don’t want to camp, you’ll need to head north a few miles to Alamo, Nevada. That’s where you can secure fuel and basic supplies. This is a fairly remote area but there are a few lodging and restaurant options in Alamo.
The most popular spot for lodging and dining in my experience is Windmill Ridge, another five-ish miles north of Alamo on Highway 93. Geocachers may recognize this as the premier spot to use as a base for tackling the lower section of the E.T. Highway power trail.
The stunning sunsets of Pahranagat hold personal importance to me. This place will always be a special spot.
Connecting…
I’ve seen a lot of wonderful places in my time traveling around North America and I have fond memories of them. Then there are places that have a deeper impact. Maybe it was the combination of place, timing, and my emotional needs that came together to cement Pahranagat National Wildlife Refuge as one of those special places.
I love our national park system, of course. But I always encourage people to explore the lesser-known public lands like Pahranagat or other refuges, national forests, and monuments. They’re just as fabulous and typically don’t have the crowds and chaos of the marquis parks. In these places, you get a better understanding of our public lands and a better chance to find peace.
Finally, here’s a YouTube video of my time at Pahranagat… several days of exploring and photography boiled down to two minutes. You can find more images in my Pahranagat album on Flickr. Enjoy!
Adventure on, friends.
And now for your moment of green…
Stop at Pahraganat to discover the unexpected side of Nevada.
Where do you go after you’ve been to hell and back?
My post-Hell Hike and Raft destination of choice? Virginia City, Nevada.
Last month at the end of my epic Hell Hike and Raft adventure, my crew mates headed back home but I grabbed a rental car and pointed myself towards Nevada and the legendary Virginia City. The good folks at the tourism board helped me get set up to explore the city, its history, and people. And I tell you what, it invigorated me in a way few city destinations have.
Equal parts history and legend, Virginia City deftly straddles the divide between its authentic past and it’s future as a tourism destination. Having risen from the wild west as a mining town, the city has reinvented itself with a dignity many other historic places have not.
The basics…
Nevada as a whole has a rugged, unforgiving reputation. Rightly deserved. It is not a welcoming environment for those looking for comfort and convenience. This is largely a place to find out what you’re made of.
There’s a different rhythm in Virginia City… and it’s fantastic.
As for Virginia City itself, there are luxuries to be had but they are not without the limitations of a town perched at 6,200 feet and only accessible by a few winding mountain roads. Because of the nature of the location as well as the independent spirit of its people, the residents of Virginia City don’t get their feathers ruffled if something goes awry and they don’t operate on the time-frame most of us urban-dwellers subject ourselves to.
A power outage? No complaints, just keep going about your business as best you can until it gets fixed. Operating hours? They’re sometimes more like suggestions. They are subject to change if something comes up. It’s nothing personal and not meant to be a slight if you are inconvenienced, just the reality of living in a place where those kind expectations don’t hold up. Please don’t mistake that mindset for standoffishness. The people of Virginia City were nothing but helpful, friendly, and welcoming but there are different rhythms and social conventions here.
A quiet evening in Virginia City.
Virginia City is the county seat for Storey County.
Once a mining boom-town, Virginia City drew pioneers seeking their fortune in the Comstock Lode.
Town pride in action. Virginia City residents are working on a mural that reflects their history.
Discovering Virginia City…
Virginia City is a visual feast of colors and textures. When I drove in at dusk on a Monday night, I was immediately impressed. Even in the failing light of the day I could tell I was going to be a very busy chick soaking it all in… but I couldn’t stop to admire it right away since my hotel hosts were waiting for me to arrive so they could go home for the night. (As you can see, that Nevadan flexibility about time goes both ways…)
The vibrant colors and textures of Virginia City are matched by the personalities of it’s people.
I slipped into town the day after the conclusion of Virginia City’s International Camel Races. I’d only learned about this wonderfully bizarre event a few months earlier, oddly enough, thanks to one of those graphic murals on the side of a U-Haul trailer. I’d known about Virginia City and its connection to the 60s music scene but learning about the races intrigued me enough to bump it to the top of my travel priority list.
Unfortunately, this year’s camel racing festivities conflicted with the Hell Hike and Raft but I knew I had to check out Virginia City in spite of that. The decision paid off. The town was in recovery mode after such a huge event so I’m really quite thrilled with my timing. In the quiet lull of the post-camel-racing tumult, I was able to walk the streets in the early morning and evening hours with few others to encounter.
I loved the feel of this town asleep. I had to chuckle that my evening strolls came complete with the metallic creak of a sign blowing in the wind as my lone footsteps echoed across the boardwalks, something straight out of a western movie before a duel takes place.
And during the busier mid-day hours, there’s still a good vibe here. With a town like this, where tourism has become a thriving industry after a long history of pioneering and mining, there are a few things that lend a slightly tourist-y feel but it’s mixed with the authenticity of a town with a genuinely rich history. In talking with a few of the town’s residents, I got a great sense of pride and ownership. They truly love their Virginia City. By wandering off the main drag and onto the side streets, you can step into their world and get a feel for the place these folks call home.
Regardless of how you choose to explore Virginia City, by sticking to C Street or getting off the beaten path with activities like geocaching, you won’t find the ubiquitous and familiar franchises. The offerings here are as unique as the people.
If you slow down and take a good look, the details throughout town are a delight to the senses.
Virginia City was a glorious muse for shooting in infrared as well as for geocaching. Yep, there’s one somewhere in this shot…
Things to do in Virginia City…
My approach in visiting any new place is hit the common highlights first to get a basic understanding, then dig deeper. That’s why I’m a fan of stopping into visitor centers as a one-stop shop to sort out my plan of attack. They’re a wealth of information and Virginia City has the added bonus of the Ye Olde Virginia City app for your phone to help you as well.
“Diamond Jim” was my buddy at the Visitor Center. He helped me figure out how to spend my short time in Virginia City.
Virginia City has a lot to offer in terms of different museums and tours to explore. Fortunately, it’s fairly small and highly walkable so it was no problem ditch the rental car at the motel and explore on foot.
There is certainly more to do here than my two-ish days allowed for but I did manage to pack in a lot of activity in that time:
Silver City Cemetery: I really enjoy soaking up the history contained in cemeteries. This particular one holds no world-renowned historical figures but it does hold the story of Virginia City. On the hillside below town, beautiful wrought-iron gate surround most of the grave sites. Different sections signify the diversity of the pioneers who made the arduous trek to Nevada, seeking their fortune in the Comstock Lode.
Trust me when I say Virginia City is a friendly place. These two were a hoot and in the time I got to chat with them I discovered that Trolley Tour Bill (left) even graduated from high school not far from where I did in South Florida. How’s that for a small world?
Silver State Peace Officer Museum: This surprise little gem wasn’t initially on my radar. What drew me to it was a geocache. I didn’t need to enter the museum to nab the cache but the host at the desk was so enthusiastic about it, I had to check it out. It proved to be a very interesting and remarkable collection of law enforcement memorobilia and artifacts. They even have a children’s corner where little ones can color and dress up in uniforms.
The Way it Was Museum: Outwardly, this museum appears to be a cheesy tourist-trap but I was surprised to find a very nice collection of Virginia City artifacts ranging from household items to mining equipment. There’s a video to watch if you care to but the items on display alone are worth the small admission. If you want to be blown away, take the time to ponder the scale model of the mining shafts constructed to mine a portion of the Comstock Lode. Mind boggling. Trust me, that’s coming from a geologist who understands what’s involved here.
The Mark Twain Museum holds some unique treasures. This is a sense of humor I appreciate.
Mark Twain Museum: This museum is housed in the basement of the original Territorial Enterprise where Mark Twain got his start. It’s filled with the printing equipment used as well as other furniture and various pieces of the time, including his original desk. And the “Mark Twain sat here” toilet? How can you resist?
Trolley Tour: As an indy traveler, hopping into a tour trolley full of people is usually not my idea of a good time. In this case, however, I got to chat with the hugely entertaining trolley driver, Bill. And the tour was well worth it. I was able to get a quick overview of the history of Virginia City as well as a feel for the lay-of-the-land which was really helpful in figuring out what I wanted to go back to visit on foot.
Road side historic point on Hwy 341: On the outskirts north of town, this is one of the best roadside historical markers I’ve encountered in my travels. This little stop offers some mining history as well as a very pleasant picnic stop overlooking the Silver State Cemetery.
With only a couple of days to explore Virginia City, I left a lot of museums and attractions unvisited but they include the likes of train tours, ghost tours, mine tours, more museums, and even a wild west show. As you can see, there’s plenty to keep you busy here for many days. And if Fred and George were with me for this trip, I would have counted it as a roadschooling feast. There is a good deal of unique shopping as well but since that’s not my cup-o-tea, I’ll leave that to someone else to detail for you.
I’m certainly late to the game in discovering the fun to be had in Virginia City but now I’m hooked.
Intricate wrought iron and tombstones tell the story of pioneers who came seeking their fortune and never left.
The Silver State National Peace Officers Museum holds and impressive and thought-provoking collection of law enforcement artifacts.
Wildflowers and history greet visitors at this roadside stop on the outskirts of town.
The Way It Was Museum holds a wide array of historic artifacts covering everything from mining to medicine and daily living.
Final thoughts…
Like with any place, how deeply you’d like to explore is up to you. For myself, I knew I was interested in more than a casual passing-through or day-trip that would only allow me to skim the surface of what Virginia City has to offer. My surprise was that my three-night stay wasn’t sufficient to sate my Virginia City appetite. This is a town worth repeat visits to experience various seasonal offerings of festivals and events like the International Camel and Ostrich Races, World Championship Outhouse Races, Christmas on Comstock, and wine tours.
Bring it on, indeed!
Beyond the attractions and events within Virginia City itself that I missed on my visit, there are also nearby places I will be sure to check out next time around including outdoor destinations like Washoe and Dayton State Parks as well as the Lake Tahoe area.
If you’ve underestimated Nevada like I have, be sure to take another look and discover the surprises the Silver State and Virginia City have waiting for you. And you don’t have to simply take my word for it, check out these stunning Nevada images.
So count me in to get back soon. This Georgia girl is sold on Virginia City and Nevada. And I still want to see those camels race…
I awoke in a fog on Day 27 of the Overland Expo to TBEX expedition. After a horrible, mostly sleepless night of battling technicolor food poisoning, I wasn’t exactly refreshed to explore the majesty of Fundy National Park. We were now four weeks into our trip and all of the bumps and hiccups along the way had worn us out. We needed a couple of easy days to recuperate.
The Point Wolfe covered bridge.
I dragged my addled, weary self out of the tent to muddle my way through breakfast. After days of rain, I stepped out into entirely unexpected, beautiful clear skies. I felt like a kid at Disney World. The combination of relief and amazement renewed my vigor for exploration.
So after a quick breakfast, I sat down to rough out the next few days. From what I’d seen so far, I knew I wanted more time in Fundy. It wouldn’t be a problem logistically to stay and I started to get very excited at the prospect of hiking throughout Fundy as well as being in one spot for a couple more nights.
Seems mother nature had other ideas though. As a matter of course, I did a quick weather check. It was crushing. The current days weather was nothing but a blip. More heavy rain was due in the next morning and it was projected to last several days. It felt like a cruel joke and snuffed out any thoughts of sticking around Fundy. We’d have to make the best of the day we had.
Epic natural beauty…
Fundy National Park forms the heart of the UNESCO Fundy Biosphere Reserve. The Bay of Fundy area and the park are famous for the likes of dramatic tides (the biggest in the world), outrageously cool geology, and the iconic Point Wolfe covered bridge. It also boasts the stunning abutment of a marine coastal ecosystem with the Caledonia Highlands Plateau. Mind-blowing is an understatement.
Our first stop was at a deck overlooking the Bay of Fundy. Originally I thought it would be a short stop to gaze at the bay and nab a geocache. But when we got there, the soupy cloud of fog over the bay started to drift up over the nearby mountains. The fog oozed over the peaks as it moved inland. I was paralyzed by the spectacle.
A newcomer to the overlook walked up to the rail next to me to take a picture. I snapped out of my trance and raced back to the car to get my camera gear, all the fatigue of the previous miserable night lost to the soul-stirring amazement of witnessing of one of the most stunning scenes of nature I’ve ever seen. After the ordeals of this trip, this was my reminder about why I explore.
In the face of this unexpected treat, we didn’t rush off to our next geocache or trail. We simply stayed and watched the dance of fog over the mountains for as long as it lasted.
The fog of Fundy makes for a jaw-dropping spectacle.
Point Wolfe
Filled with excitement after the fog show, we moved on to geocache our way to Wolf Point. There are miles-and-miles of trails in Fundy but in spite of my renewed spirit, I was still very physically drained from the food poisoning and the Point Wolfe trail was short enough to be doable for me under the circumstances. So we set out to explore at long last.
The trail led us through the forests down to the little bay at Pointe Wolfe. I was giddy with delight in seeing this boreal forest that reminded me of the upper elevations of the Great Smoky Mountains near Clingman’s Dome. It felt like home and I walked at ease in the familiarity of the landscape. Once at Point Wolfe, the boys played and I spent time shooting along the deserted coastline. We were utterly alone on the peaceful bay.
Jaw-dropping geology is one of the best parts of Fundy National Park.
Fundy’s drama is seemingly endless. Stunning rocks and remnants of piers make for a feast of textures.
Streams cut through the boreal forest to empty into the Bay of Fundy.
George on the trail to Pointe Wolf.
At last, a warm, dry, lunch break in the sun.
The only wildlife we spotted during our brief visit.
Back at camp…
But of course, we did have other things to attend to. It was time to head back to the car for lunch then, sadly, back to camp for laundry duty. I hadn’t tackled it for 8 days and there was no getting by any longer. We needed clean clothes and the dirty ones were beyond pungent.
Back at the Chignecto North campground, we took the afternoon to hang around camp, do laundry, and let Fred and George play. In between stages of laundry, I made arrangements for an oil change and new windshield for Blubaru. That would take us to the Subaru dealer in Bangor, Maine the next day.
Fred and George are getting a bit big for playgrounds but after so many days of rain and driving, they embraced the chance to play in the sun.
I’m not kidding… a full four days after the Franconia Notch incident, my boots were still soggy. There was no way to dry them out in the midst of constant rain.
By the way, this is the view I get when I wake up in the morning. It’s one of the many perks of camping.
One of the most notable differences of visiting a Canadian national park was the infrastructure supporting recycling and composting. Upon our arrival at camp, we were given special bags for collecting both. Well done, Canada, well done.
Note to campers: Do not leave your site like this. Not cool.
Chasing a sunset…
Since it was our last night, it was obviously my only chance to try to shoot a sunset. So while in camp that afternoon, I planned for an early dinner so we could get back to Point Wolfe in time.
By evening, the tide was out leaving the bay empty and the wave-worn rocks exposed. Fred and George, who were initially annoyed at having to go back to the same place, ran and frolicked in the bay where a few hours earlier they would have been swimming. Without enough clouds to create a backdrop, the sunset didn’t pan out, but it was no matter. We finally had a “normal” day of camping and it felt wonderful. So wonderful.
Walking where they would have been swimming only a few hours earlier certainly got Fred & George’s attention.
Point Wolfe at sunset and low tide.
Border crossing #8…
Motivated by the incoming rain the next morning, Fred and George were super helpers in getting camp packed up. The skies had gone overcast again and we knew we were in a race with the first raindrops. And we made if by the skin of our teeth, putting the last bits of gear in the car when the rain began. With that, we bid farewell to Fundy and retraced our path through New Brunswick and back towards Maine and our final border crossing of the trip. And yet again, we found ourselves driving through the pouring rain.
When we got to the border station, the guard ran through the usual queries. When I answered his questions about how long we were in Canada and why, he paused and gave me a sympathetic look. He’d done the travel math of our time in Fundy plus camping plus weather and said “So, you had like one good day?” with pity in his voice. Yep, that about sums it up, dude. But it was a great day.
And now for your moment of green…
Magical places and moments are worth the struggle.
The Camp Granola entrance to Great Sand Dunes was anything but smooth. With a few months to ponder my folly I can now laugh at my foibles. In truth, the whole thing went pear-shaped back in the planning stages and I didn’t even know it. One of the problems of not having a traditional schedule is that you forget that most people do have one. The Memorial Day holiday weekend didn’t hit my mental radar until way late in the game or I could have adjusted our travels to avoid it.
This is it folks. This is my paradise, the place I couldn’t miss before heading back east.
Moving forward…
At any rate, after what I can only call a travel wrestling match, I was able to finally enjoy Great Sand Dunes. Our first day included camp setup, tent research, and calls to various REIs around the country trying to get my hands on all the pieces of the tent I picked out. In between all that we got down to Medano Creek for some sand dunes fun.
I was eager to introduce Fred and George to the creek, never before having managed to get them here when it was flowing. They basked in the cool water that insulated their tender feet from the seering sand outside of creek… a day at the beach in the middle of Colorado’s rugged mountains. While they frolicked I broke out my converted 50D to get in some infrared time. The harsh mid-day sun is ill-suited for traditional photography so I love having the IR camera to fill in the gap between the golden hours of light.
All of this delight was just a short walk from our campsite, the hassle of moving from San Luis a faint memory and well worth the effort. The little bit of time we lost moving camp ended up giving me more time to enjoy the dunes fully. When you love a place this much, you need to be in it, not looking through the window.
Fred and George dwarfed by the dunes.
Flashback…
So rewind nearly a year to Camp Granola’s last foray into the joy of Great Sand Dunes. This is necessary to help frame why I was hell-bent on getting a decent few days here this year because last year’s trip ended in disaster for me.
I had allotted us 5 days in the park, our last hurrah of the Geowoodstock to TBEX expedition. Day one involved getting to camp, setting up, running to Alamosa for a long-overdue laundry day, etc. Day two was detoxing from so much driving and just taking it easy knowing we still had several days to hike in the Sangre de Cristos, climb to the top of the dunes, and whatever else we decided. Days three through five should have been more than enough time to feel fulfilled for this visit. Except on Day 3, I had a very bad day at Zapata Falls and all of those plans came to a bone-splitting end. Instead of exploring, I spent three days hobbling around camp (aside from a trip to the ER) in tremendous pain.
Adult playtime… while Fred and George frolicked in Medano Creek, I got to break out the converted 50D and have some fun myself.
Fulfillment, Episode 1…
Unable to climb to the top of Great Sand Dunes last year, I lamented my plight and returned this year to conquer the dunes, albeit now permanently maimed but functional enough. The boys and I chugged up the dunes, aiming for sunset atop the highest one.
Climbing up giant sand piles is fairly strenuous but the boys were determined and I delighted in their vigor for it. We tried to travel light so I carried a small complement of snacks and water but of course, even with my trimmed-down camera gear, the load was stupidly heavy for the task and my current level of road-trip “un”-fitness. I managed though and we played on the dunes, laughing at being sand-blasted.
Alas, I timed us too early. The sun was sinking slowly and the boys had gotten their fill of sand in their eyes. Plus they desperately wanted to slide down the enormous slopes, their reward for hoofing it up the dunes. I tried to stall but in the end set them loose figuring I’d just shoot from the edge of the dunes.
So yes, my longing was requited. Being back up top felt exquisite even if I didn’t get to shoot the sunset.
Yes, it’s very windy up here. And very invigorating.
Fulfillment, Episode 2…
One of my favorite little details of Great Sand Dunes is the gnarly dead tree just outside the entrance. It’s textures and swirls with the dunes in the backdrop just blow me away. Last year I had to shoot it in tremendous pain on our last day there and with a two-day-old throbbing, heinously broken big toe. There were a couple of times I almost passed out squatting low along the roadside to get the right angle… partly due to pain, partly due to sweltering heat. Last year when I left the dunes, I didn’t know I’d have another chance to be back so soon and I was giving it all I had.
What a difference a year makes though. This year not only was my toe as healed as it was going to get, but the temperatures were ever-so-slightly more forgiving and I had a largely revamped photography kit, including an infrared-converted Canon 50D. This meant I didn’t have to sit through long exposures to accommodate the IR filter on the unconverted camera so I was shooting faster, saving a lot of time wallowing on the ground trying to get a shot of this tree. All in all a pretty huge improvement over last year!
The boys missed out last year too. Getting to slide and tumble down the enormous dunes is the highlight of their visits.
Painless education…
Having been to Great Sand Dunes several times at this point in their lives, I had to scramble to find something new to throw at Fred and George to engage them more deeply than just playing in the sand. I try to keep their learning painless and by-and-large their own curiosity drives their discoveries but they do get lazy on repeat visits to places, thinking they know all there is to know as teen & tween are wont to do.
George had already completed the Junior Ranger program here and Fred has largely outgrown the program as a whole so I had to get creative. I set them loose in the visitor center on an educational mini-scavenger hunt for information. Oddly enough, they actually dove in and answered the questions I set them to research. In the dunes themselves I got to let their innate curiosity take over as they questioned the shape of the dunes, watched the sand flow, and raised eyebrows at the patterns created by the flow of Medano Creek.
This is the easy part of experiential education. I could have been sitting in a lawn chair, drinking a margarita, answering a question from time-to-time… one giant science lesson they didn’t even realize they were doing for me. I have to take my victories where I can because let’s face it, getting them here isn’t exactly easy. 😉
I’m a huge fan of this particular visitor center. Great exhibits covering the range of nature at Great Sand Dunes to the history of San Luis Valley. It makes my job so easy!
Reflection…
Like many people, when I find myself in a place of absolute peace, it’s a time to reflect. I was fully aware of the insanity of this undertaking before we set out but given the hectic nature of the first two weeks of this expedition, it was time to step back and ask myself what we were getting out of the effort. I believe in constantly assessing these things to avoid falling into a rut and taking on these adventures because it’s what we do and not because they have value and purpose.
Aimlessly cavorting around the country would certainly be pointless but there were the straight-forward lessons like learning about the sand dunes. Geography lessons were also abundant as we hopped from state-to-state taking notice of changing landscapes and lifestyles. These are all things we discuss in the long hours of driving. In fact, much of our learning happens in the car as we talk and mentally process our experience together.
But beyond the obvious, travel in general requires flexibility and problem-solving. This trip in particular was already proving to be unusually challenging. The boys were getting to see me make (and sometimes struggle with) decisions based upon our situation… some worked out, some didn’t. I almost always involve them in the process so they understand why I chose a particular solution. They often come up with an idea I hadn’t thought of.
To me this may be more important than their exposure to the world at large. Travel is real (sometimes painfully so) and usually fun but sometimes not. It’s unpredictable. Unlike their video games, in travel we don’t get do-overs, we don’t get to push the reset button, we don’t know the cast of characters we’ll encounter, we don’t know what obstacles we’ll face. We just have to make decisions based on the information we have at the time and move forward.
Little did I know how many more challenges were to come on this journey that would continue to test us…
Finally some travel down-time. George cocooned himself in the hammock and read for hours.
And now for your moment of green…
This is way I couldn’t stay on the outside looking in. These textures require immersion…
