Tag: south dakota

  • Geowoodstock to TBEX: South Dakota’s Gem – Custer State Park (Part One)

    Geowoodstock to TBEX: South Dakota’s Gem – Custer State Park (Part One)

    As you know, I’m a huge fan of public lands here in the United States. And in the course of camping our way all over the country we’ve been to a lot. While I’ve never discovered one that I felt unworthy of preservation, there are certainly ones that simply stand out above others for me. My newest love is Custer State Park in South Dakota.

    During our five days at Custer, we had fun exploring the icons the area had to offer but the bulk of our time was devoted to the park. We chose Custer over nearby national parks partly due to location and partly for amenities. When you’re on the road for five weeks, you simply need a campground with a shower which national parks rarely offer.

    This glorious bison ran alongside Blubaru as we explored. Breathtaking experience.

    Epic park…

    We had some pretty memorable adventures at Custer but let’s start with the park itself. In a nutshell, you’ve got a whopping 71,000 acres of forest, grasslands, and rock outcrops to discover. It’s flat-out enormous, especially for a state park as opposed to a national park.

    In terms of activities, it offers everything from miles-and-miles of hiking trails, to many more miles of scenic drive, to fishing, boating, horseback riding, biking, jeep rides, ranger talks and tours, historic buildings, and wildlife viewing. Seriously, this park has it all.

    Your headquarters for Custer fun, the Norbeck Visitor Center. The rangers were friendly, helpful, and all sorts of wonderful.

    Plus it’s got multiple lodges, campgrounds, and cabins. And it’s the perfect headquarters for exploring the area attractions ranging from monuments like Mount Rushmore and Crazy Horse to Wind Cave and Jewel Cave. There are many other attractions as well that weren’t really our style, or dog-accommodating for that matter, but you can check out all the opportunities at the Rapid City Tourism Website.

    So there’s really no shortage of offerings here whether in the park or neighboring it. You could spend weeks trying to dive into all the activities. Given the magnitude of the park alone, you’ll definitely want to pick up a park brochure at the visitor center that details all of this. Trust me, it’s a substantial guide. It kind of has to be right?

    Camp Granola at Custer..

    Clearly we didn’t partake of all the park’s goodies with only five days but we did jump into the geocaching challenge since that’s our favorite way to explore a new place. It did not disappoint in terms of the locations it took us in the park. With so much to choose from, it was nice to hit the high points through the challenge in order to get the lay of the land.

    We particularly enjoyed getting off the main roads and exploring the less-traveled gravel goodness to be had. Wonderful, peaceful lunch spots abound off the beaten path. Just a little free advice courtesy of Camp Granola. 😉

    Bison abound at Custer.
    We were treated to a feat of climbing as we explored the Needles Highway.
    Our geocaching adventure took us to the Gordon Stockade just outside of our campground. Very interesting history here!
    In spite of the hazy day, George wanted to see all he could see from the Mt. Coolidge Fire Tower. This is probably the best place to experience how wildfries have impacted the area.
    Our geocaching expedition took us in search of this historic grave site. Always a great time to ponder your good fortune when you encounter a memorial like this.
    The Badger Hole… a remarkable cabin built by South Dakota’s first poet laureate, Badger Clark.
    Badger’s stove in the cabin he built himself. It took him ten years just to build the foundation.
    These burros were clearly used to being fed by humans. They walked right up to me looking for a handout. Trust me folks, it may be fun to feed the animals but it is illegal for a reason. For the safety of all of us, please don’t feed the animals!
    Choosing one of the many off-the-beaten-path lunch spots was actually hard. So many!
    A surprise education along the gravel roads of Custer.
    Custer’s burros after a rain.
    His Beagleness on this throne at the Game Lodge, patiently waiting through my Twitter chat.

    Oh hail no…

    Ok, so South Dakota is quite a different beast weather-wise for we Georgians. Scanning the park brochure’s list of average highs and lows for the area, it’s a good ten to twenty degrees cooler here year round. That and it’s obviously not nearly as humid as our sultry southeast. Of course, we were prepared with a variety of gear and clothing for our long journey. We knew we’d be traveling through widely varying climate and landscapes. What did catch a little off-guard was the tornado warnings that left us scrambling for shelter.

    We’d taken a little break on the porch of the Game Lodge to allow me some work time and were loading up to head back to camp when a thoughtful visitor tapped on Blubaru’s window to tell us about the tornado warnings. We were severely out of touch at this point and had no idea other than recognizing the surly black clouds overhead. We’re used to camping through dramatic weather so we didn’t think much of heading back to camp in it.

    Tornadoes are another story though of course! Big Agnes isn’t going to shelter us from those so we high-tailed it back into the resort and begged to sit in the lobby for the duration. Obviously we three humans weren’t a problem, but we did have the beagle with us and dogs aren’t permitted in the buildings.

    Fred biding his time at the Game Lodge through the threat of tornadoes.

    Fortunately the resort staff made an exception given the circumstances. Not sure what we would have done otherwise. We kept Dobby on a short leash to be as considerate and out of the way as possible but his beagle magnetism attracted a lot of would-be dog-petters. He didn’t mind the attention of course.

    After a good hour-and-a-half of storm watch we were able to resume our journey back to camp. As we neared the Stockade campground, we began noticing what looked like foam all along the sides of the roads. Further on still, the hillsides were coated too and that’s when it finally hit me that it was mounds of hail piled up. We’d seen none at the lodge, in fact, other than strong rain, the storm was not what it was feared to be.

    But sure enough, upon our arrival at the site, it was practically a winter wonderland…in June! Welcome to South Dakota right? We were treated to a chilly walk around the campground, crunching on the hail, and marveling at a landscape so foreign us to southeasterners. Having to bundle up in June is a strange, strange concept to us.

    It was not all fun and games unfortunately. The position of our campsite put us downslope from everything around us and thus, the recipient of mounds of hail against the tent. The hail had worked itself in between the footprint and tent… a huge wet, soggy mess in the making as it began to melt. A little damage control was in order so we wouldn’t be sleeping in a puddle the rest of our stay.

    At least our tent was still standing. Several campers returned to find their tents collapsed. Most of them simply packed up and left. Big props to Big Agnes for holding her ground!

    George had no trouble passing the time at the Game Lodge by playing with his state magnets.
    Our chilly greeting back at camp. This little scene rocked Dobby’s world. Fred and George were delighted but Dobby was quite disapproving…as usual.

    And because this park is too big and too fabulous to be contained in one post, our Custer adventures are to be continued…

    And now for your moment of green…

    Full of geologic, historic, wildlife, and landscape wonders, Custer State Park is my new love and ranks amongst my favorite parks.
  • Geowoodstock to TBEX: A Tour of American Icons

    Geowoodstock to TBEX: A Tour of American Icons

    After our adventures in Medora and Theodore Roosevelt National Park, we’d hit the northern extent of our expedition and it was time to start working our way back southward. Our next big stop was Custer State Park near Rapid City, South Dakota but we had a few pit-stops to make on the way that included some heavy-hitters in terms of American icons. Throw in the no-state-left behind geocaching policy this trip and you can imagine that this was not a simple logistical puzzle.

    Fred and George finding a little taste of home in South Dakota.

    Montana…

    So after exiting Medora sans glorious fudge, we eased westward into Montana to claim our geocaching smiley. We stopped in a little town for for a cache that looked like it would be a neat location…only we looked, and looked, and looked…and didn’t find it. (For you non-geocachers out there that means we “DNF”ed it and you get a little sad face on your geocaching logs. It’s truly a pathetic sight.)

    It can be really hard to walk away from a cache without bagging a smiley. You keep talking yourself into looking “just one more time…” But there are times the cache is really just not there. It may have been “muggled” (removed or destroyed by a non-cacher) so you never really know if you’re just missing it or if it’s gone. Previous logs can be a clue if there have been a string of DNFs, especially by experienced cachers but it’s always a judgement call how much effort you should throw into a find. It seems like this particular cache should have been easy we just couldn’t come up with it…maybe we were just too brain-dull after so much driving. The road-numbness can get the best of you from time-to-time.

    At any rate, we moved on to another cache which proved to be quite an adventure for Blubaru at least. She’s had some fun hot-dogging it on dirt roads and embankments while geocaching the E.T. Highway but this was by far the most potentially undercarriage damaging adventure she’s undertaken for us. There were definitely a few “R’uh R’oh!” moments as we navigated our way up a jeep trail… but we did manage to get to the cache and our Montana smiley. The kicker is that we found the “easy” way in…on the way out. Oops! (And not to worry, Blubaru received nothing but high marks on her post-trip check up so all is well.)

    George diligently working while I pester him through the glass at Devil’s Tower.

    Devil’s Tower…

    With our Montana smiley secured, we headed for Devil’s Tower National Monument knowing it wouldn’t be more than a drive-by viewing. With Dobby in tow, there wasn’t much we would be able to do there other than “Chevy Chase” the iconic monument. (And yes, I realize I’m dating myself with that reference…)

    This type of quick visit is when having an annual parks pass helps. I probably would have avoided the expense of the entrance fee for such a short visit but with pass in hand I didn’t have to sweat it. Since we visit so many parks, this small investment definitely more than pays for itself.

    Aside from that, Devil’s Tower was high on George’s Junior Ranger wish list so I wanted him to have the chance to get it and I certainly wanted to have at least a peek myself. Once we arrived, George diligently plowed through his exercises while Fred and I kept Dobby company outside in the shadow of the monument. After a Junior Ranger swearing in and a last longing gaze at the geologic marvel of Devil’s Tower we moved on to nabbing a Wyoming cache. The efforts here proved to be much less adventuresome than the Montana ones.

    George as a newly minted Devil’s Tower Junior Ranger.
    View of Devil’s Tower from the visitor center.
    Fred was surprised to discover that he found the president statues compelling.

    Rapid City…

    After a quick overnight stop in Spearfish, SD and yet another hotel-parking-lot-tent-drying event, we worked our way through the famous Sturgis, SD for lunch and supplies before blitzing through Rapid City to Custer State Park.

    We didn’t stop in Rapid City initially since securing out campsite was in order but George was insistent upon seeing the entire series of president sculptures in The City of Presidents so we went back to satisfy his presidential desire a few days later. Fred wasn’t interested in the tour at first but tagged along and ended up more excited about it than George in the end. In fact they switched personalities on this outing with George suddenly becoming camera shy and Fred posing for everything. Go fig! (I think it’s a plot they’ve concocted to always keep me guessing…)

    The statue tour was a nice introduction to Rapid City. We picked up a brochure at the City of Presidents Information Center which helped us plot our route. The more centrally located statues are obviously in the more active, prettier part of downtown with tree-lined streets and inviting shops. To visit the outlying statues you find yourself pounding the heat-baked concrete with little interesting to see aside from the statues.

    Oddly, it’s out there in the concrete jungle that several of the more prominent presidential figures are located, like Lincoln, Kennedy, and St. Teddy. The placement of the statues was supposed to avoid favoritism which is fine of course but, like I said, you start to feel a bit baked by the time you reach them. They’re certainly worth a visit to ponder but in the June South Dakota heat we were completely sapped for the effort. At least it was something we could do with the pup along which is an unusual feature in a city.

    One of the things we didn’t realize going in was that there is a seasonal fountain park at the Main Street Square across from the information center. And there we were, unprepared for wet, summer fun…extra clothes and swim trunks tucked away back at camp. The boys were tired enough to take it in stride though.

    Camp Granola’s Tips:

    • Be mindful of the weather when heading out to tour the presidents. That concrete gets blistering hot and energy sapping in the heat of summer.
    • Pick up a map from the information center to help plot your course.
    • Plan your potty stops carefully. In those outlying areas, there aren’t many places to slip into for pit stop. Poor George was denied access by one shop even though he was practically yellow-eyed.
    • Don’t forget the Main Square has fountains to jump in during the summer and it turns into an ice rink in winter so plan accordingly…unlike we did!
    Fred has always been fascinated by Theodore Roosevelt.
    Fred striking a pose with Thomas Jefferson.
    One of the discussions we got to have during our tour was “why” of how each president was portrayed.

    Mount Rushmore…

    Of course, you can’t visit the Rapid City area without doing Mount Rushmore right? Given George’s excitement over the City of Presidents statues, you can imagine this was a must-see for him in particular.

    Like many of our exploring efforts with Dobby along, we couldn’t do much here. We had to the the Dobby shuffle, trading time sitting with him out front while the non-dog-sitters explored a little. Fred took the bulk of the duty since he wasn’t terribly interested and George wanted to earn his Junior Ranger badge. Even trading dog watching, it was pretty toasty out and unfair to keep the watcher waiting longer than necessary so we skipped the extras like the Presidential Trail.

    Camp Granola’s tips:

    • Your visit can be a quick as ten minutes to gawp at the carving or many hours if you take in the museums, tours, and trails.
    • Obviously bringing your canine companions will limit your options here.
    • There is an parking fee for this park that isn’t covered by the National Parks Pass so be sure to budget $11 for a passenger car. (Or click here for up-to-date fees.)
    George working his way through the Junior Ranger activities under the watchful eyes of four epic presidents.
    George receiving his Junior Ranger badge at Mount Rushmore.
    George counts Mt. Rushmore as one of his favorite places of this trip.

    The main event…

    Of course, these adventures were not the main reason for our visit to South Dakota. Our time was mostly allotted for the uber-fabulousness of Custer State Park. Stay tuned!

    And now for your moment of green…

    Yes I know everyone and their brother has this shot of Mt. Rushmore but this is mine.