Dive in to my adventures and travels of all kinds here. From outdoors to urban and via foor, auto, motorcycle, or as a full-time RVer, I’ve embraced adventures of all kinds.
Life is a funny thing. While I prefer the rhythm of extended travel, the obligations on my calendar don’t allow for it at the moment. With that limitation, I’ve been bouncing between smaller adventures to satiate my wanderlust. With a frenetic August and September now behind me, I’m amazed at the volume of diverse experiences I crammed into such little time.
Going full steam
In just six weeks I:
took a 10-day motorcycle trip through Oregon, Washington, and British Columbia in the midst of crushing heat and wildfires,
Then I collapsed in a heap at home and slept. And slept. And slept! All of these events and travels were amazing but clearly I need to make my travels less chaotic. Disjointed yo-yo travel is hard. Historically I’ve found it far less rewarding than the arc of being on the road for weeks at a time.
In addition to the hectic pace, the disparity between all of these events was mind boggling. Transitioning from independent motorcycle travel to urban travel with the boys was challenging just by itself. Thankfully, experience helped make that obstacle more of an annoyance than a real problem.
From a sunrise obscured by wildfire smoke in Squamish, British Columbia…
Going directly from Dragon Con to the Camel Races on back-to-back weekends for the second year in a row is a different beast. It makes my head spin. Both events share epic quirkiness, which I love, but the differences in culture, geography, and context are shocking.
Dragon Con is as urban as it gets. Eighty thousand people descend on downtown Atlanta for non-stop events over five days. It’s a mecca of sci-fi and fantasy. It’s metal, concrete, and make-believe. The creativity and passion of the people who attend is marvelous. It’s also too much stimulation. It’s constant people and input. There’s little room for this introvert to take a necessary giant breath. But it’s a reunion with friends and a tradition for me and the boys that I wouldn’t miss so it’s a matter of learning how to manage all of the chaos.
And then, only a couple of days later, I find myself riding a camel in a rugged, historic, western, desert town of a few hundred people. It’s rural, organic, accessible. It’s wood, dirt, and animals. There’s a rugged reality to it that is hidden underneath the fun and entertainment. It’s also an event I wouldn’t miss. The people, the laughter, the tradition.
The strange common thread between the two, oddly enough, is costumes. Dragon Con is fantasy, steampunk, sci-fi. In Virginia City, it’s corsets, history, and the Camel Hump Ball. That I wear the same costume to both events is both bizarre and a comforting connection between them.
Time with some of my besties amidst the chaos of Dragon Con is time well spent.
From the fantasy of Dragon Con to the wild west of Virginia City, the odd common link is my leather corset cosplay.
Building travel savvy
So as a traveler, are there benefits from taking on all of this in a short time? I think so. Mainly it’s knowing I can respond and adapt quickly while still enjoying myself. Any time you can travel in a different way builds a new set of skills.
The rapid succession of these eclectic travels brings a different perspective to the adventure equation. It’s a surprise bonus that helps highlight the differences, details, and value of each of them. I’m not certain that would be as apparent if it were more spread out. The experiences would lose their heightened contrast.
But this is not a pace I wish to maintain. It doesn’t come naturally to me. So until the next big adventure, I’m going to slow down a bit and give myself time to process these experiences and cement them in my memories.
Getting fantastical with Fred and George at Dragon Con.
Happy travels, friends.
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Until next time, here are some more shots from Dragon Con and the Virginia City Camel and Ostrich Races. Enjoy!
Today Nevada turns 153. On October 31, 1864, the constitution of the new state was telegraphed to President Lincoln from Fort Churchill, not far from where I now call home. I’m very much smitten with my new home state. This year, for the first time, I got to celebrate Nevada Day in Carson City with my fellow Nevadans.
Nevada Day is the largest statehood celebration in the country. A state holiday gets that ball rolling on the last Friday in October. That’s just a beginning, though—festivities continue through the weekend. Nowhere is Nevadan pride more apparent than at the parade and rock drilling contest. The collection of entries in the parade likely belies most people’s image of the state and its people. In a few hours of watching the parade of over 200 entries you’ll see a lot of what you’d expect at any parade such as marching bands, dance and cheerleading troupes, ROTC and veterans groups, rodeo queens, law enforcement and fire departments, local businesses and clubs, and politicians. On Nevada Day though, you’ll also get brothel “bunnies”, wild horse advocates, a breadth of native tribes, Pony Express preservationists, low-rider enthusiasts, sikhs, gunfighters, vaqueros, Clampers, and even the president and first lady of Molossia.
I admit it—I never gave Nevada more than a passing thought before George requested a birthday geocaching adventure back in 2012. With that trip, limited to the southern part of the Silver State, I had no idea the breadth of what Nevada has to offer. At least until beginning to explore it in earnest a couple of years later. Since then, I’ve criss-crossed the state exploring via car and motorcycle.
And now I’m a resident of the 36th state. As a new Nevadan, and having discovered the virtues of the landscape here, hearing Nevada referred to as “flyover country” is my cue to explain what you’re missing. As much as I love my former home state of Georgia, the vastness to explore here is entirely different. I’m still just scratching the surface here but what I have discovered so far leaves me wanting more.
Great Basin National Park is like the Great Smoky Mountains of the west with unparalleled ecological diversity.
The Nature of Nevada
Most of the state falls within the basin and range province which is characterized by narrow north-south trending mountain ranges with flat valleys in between. This is a result of tectonic extension, pulling the earth’s crust apart. Pretty cool, huh? Even if you’re not a former geologist.
What that geologic activity does for the landscape is create dramatic contrasts in what is the most mountainous state in the lower 48. The elevation in Nevada ranges from 481 feet above sea level to over 13,000. Most of the state falls within the “Great Basin,” the largest desert in North America. In addition to the Great Basin, a small southern portion of Nevada falls within the Mojave desert and the western portion of the state is bounded by the Sierra Nevada mountains, including Lake Tahoe. That means you have everything from alpine ecosystems to pinion-juniper and sagebrush steppe within its massive 110,000 square miles, making it the 7th largest state in the U.S.
In spite of being the driest state in the U.S., Nevada has a multitude of lakes, rivers, and reservoirs. Those, combined with the variety of ecosystems means Nevada is filled with wildlife, from antelope to mountain lions, desert tortoise to western diamondbacks, red-tail hawks to sage grouse, as well as wild horses. The list goes on. Of course, much of Nevada is desert and to the casual observer, it might seem a barren wasteland. Hardly! Much of our wildlife lives in the “sagebrush sea,” which is amazingly green in the spring.
Doesn’t sound like a land of desolation, does it?
The iconic wild horses of northern Nevada.
The sagebrush sea meets the Sierra Nevada mountains.
History
Nevada has an eclectic history. The Nevada Territory was carved from the Utah Territory, its statehood coming a few years later as a result of the building tensions over slavery. Nevada’s slogan, “Battle Born,” reflects its birth during the Civil War.
Mining is what put Nevada on the map in modern times, though. And along with that boom came the characters who became legendsof the wild west, including the likes of Mark Twain and the Pony Express. Not long after that sudden influx followed the railroads needed to serve the demands of mining. That connection cemented Nevada’s place in U.S. history. Sadly, the inevitable busts that accompany mining booms left once-vibrant hubs to fade into the lore of our many ghost towns.
In recent decades, Nevada has become more known for its entertainment and casinos. Yet most of the state is still largely viewed as a wasteland. That perception led others to deem it an ideal location to test powerful weapons. In my mind, that aspect of Nevada’s history was the turning point into the modern wild west. One in which atomic bomb testing, casinos, and brothels co-exist alongside cattle ranching, wild horses, and vast wilderness.
Nevada was nearly uninhabited before the discovery of the Comstock Lode.
Adventure
Over 80 percent of Nevada is public land, largely under the care of the Bureau of Land Management (BLM). It’s an outdoor adventurer’s paradise. The landscape is highly variable, more so than most people realize. Which is why Nevada gets so overlooked as an adventure destination. For those who embrace Nevada, there are lots of different ways to get your adventure on.
The wide range of elevation, landscapes, and ecosystems provide the framework for every type of outdoor pursuit. You name it, you can likely do it in Nevada. Hiking, climbing, camping, snow sports, water sports, cycling, wildlife viewing, hunting, fishing, off-roading, and motorcycling, of course. All of that with spectacular views.
While we have our portion of Lake Tahoe and the adventures that can be had in an alpine setting, adventuring in Nevada does mean embracing the desert. Keep in mind this is high desert or “cold” desert which means nights are surprisingly chilly. Not to worry, we’ve got a multitude of hot springs for you to warm up in, thanks to the geology here.
We do have one national park to claim as our own, Great Basin. The ecosystem and landscape diversity in the park is nothing short of astonishing. And yet it’s the least-visited park in the U.S. in spite of having peaks reaching over 13,000 feet, caves, and a surprising variety of wildlife. The advantage of its remoteness is that we have a breathtaking park without the crowds.
Add in Nevada’s growing state parks system and the opportunity for outdoor adventure of all kinds awaits. Personally, as I’ve gotten to know Nevada, I’ve found the weather to be more volatile than any place I’ve experienced to date. That makes for challenging adventures that make you think ahead.
Nevada hot springs soothe the weary traveler.
Soul-stirring motorcycling will leave you wanting to explore more of Nevada’s expanses.
People and Places
The people of Nevada are fiercely independent. But in a measured way; not with the bluster like Texans proclaiming their superiority. It’s a quiet confidence and friendliness with no need to posture. Maybe it’s the wide open spaces and ruggedness of the state that breeds independence in Nevadans. Living here requires self reliance.
With only a couple of large urban areas and the vastness of the landscape, towns can be pretty sparse in Nevada. That creates a unique and quirky mix of places to embrace history and culture. Explorers, adventurers, and sight-seers have access to an array of experiences: rural ghost towns to top-notch museums, spectacular shows to hole-in-the-wall restaurants, and events spanning the range of the Cowboy Poetry Festival to motorcop competitions and Burning Man to camel races. It’s that kind of breadth that makes Nevada difficult to define. Throw in oddities like the E.T. Highway and Rhyolite and you’ll realize that a sense of humor is alive and well in Nevada.
Racing camels in Virginia City
The town of Belmont is an “almost” ghost town.
Find out more
If you didn’t already notice, I’m quite smitten with Nevada and what it has to offer. I’ve learned the Nevada is a land of extremes and is truly no place for wimps when it comes to the outdoors. When you embrace the ruggedness of this state, you are rewarded with amazing adventures. I hope I’ve convinced you this is no fly-over country.
Having only discovered the wonders of Nevada in recent years, I’m hardly the go-to expert, though. To find out more, head over to the Travel Nevada website. Lots of info from the folks who know where the good stuff is.
Nevada will make you feel small, especially at places like Diana’s Punch Bowl, a vertical-walled hot spring so fierce, it’s not suitable for soaking.
These days Fred and George balk at the idea of weeks-long camping trips like we used to take. They’re teenagers and they’re more intrigued by urban adventures right now. With that in mind, for an end-of-summer trip we flitted off to Seattle. It’s been a few years since we were last there and they’ve both changed so much we decided to repeat some experiences as well as try new things.
Accommodating Teen Sensibilities
Fred and George are brothers. I think most parents get what I’m driving at. Sometimes they love each other aaaaaaaand sometimes they don’t. The three of us crammed into a small hotel room simply wasn’t going to fly. To maintain the peace, we needed space in our down time. Lodging in Seattle is pricey but I managed to find an affordable three-bedroom rental apartment that gave us the space we needed.
The small apartment is in the Queen Anne district which meant we could walk to a lot of interesting sights. Given the density of attractions surrounding the Space Needle, taking on several in one day was fairly easy, even with teenagers who have a propensity to sleep until noon!
After a long flight from Atlanta, tired teenagers request pizza and relaxation for our first evening in Seattle.
The Space Needle
The Space Needle is always a treat. I’m not an urban chick but I’m not immune to being amazed by the view of the city from the top. Fred and George, being the inquisitive people they are, were intent upon finding our apartment building and I took the opportunity to grab some fun infrared shots. We spent less than 90 minutes all told which was still a leisurely pace at the Space Needle. Given the price tag on tickets ($22*), the bang for the buck is fairly low but it’s something that’s worthwhile at least once simply to take in the view. The boys would do it every time if given the option.
Scanning the scene below the Space Needle to find our apartment.
The Armory
The Armory at the Seattle Center next to the Space Needle is known as the “center of the center.” It contains a central food court that is a boon to folks with different food sensibilities traveling together. The boys could get what they wanted, I could get what I wanted, and we could meet back to have lunch together. It’s a win for everyone.
We were inadvertently in the Armory as they were setting up for their once-a-month game night and happy hour. We opted to go to the Great Wheel instead of staying but George would have loved to partake of all of the games.
Giant Connect Four at The Armory
The Museum of Pop Culture
MoPop, as its called, is a step back in time. If you’re at all nostalgic about rock music, Star Trek, The Princess Bride, Jim Henson and his Muppets, fantasy and science fiction culture, gaming, and things of that sort, you’ll love it. There are many interactive exhibits that will appeal to all ages. I did peg this one wrong though, thinking it would appeal to George most. He actually wasn’t impressed and that surprised me. Fred enjoyed it way more. And I enjoyed it the most. I could easily spend several hours there so the cost-to-enjoyment ratio is high for me, less so for the boys. At $22-$31* in addition to special exhibit add-on tickets, plan on taking several hours to explore to get the value from your visit.
I may have squealed just a little upon meeting Beaker and Dr. Honeydew at MoPop.
Chihuly Garden and Glass
Chihuly Garden and Glass was surprisingly intriguing. The exhibit itself doesn’t require much time to see. The works are a feast for the eyes and you could easily enjoy it quickly if you wanted to. But when you go slowly and walk through a couple of times, you begin to absorb all of the details of the pieces and they take on new life and depth. I think it’s well worth the ticket price ($24 for adults*), if you take your time.
Artistry in the collection as well as the details at Chihuly Garden and Glass.
Argosy Cruises
Given our limited time frame and last-minute decision to do one of the Argosy Cruises, our only option was the Harbor Cruise. We weren’t disappointed. The live narration was excellent but not intrusive. The ride did go by very quickly but the opportunity to see the complexity and scale of the harbor operations was astounding.
The bonus with the cruise is that food and beverages are available on board so you can maximize your time enjoying the ride while having lunch. For all of us, this one was well worth the ticket price of $27* each.
Taking in the view of Seattle from the harbor while learning more about the industry beyond tourism.
The Great Wheel, Piers, and Pike Place Market
Another of Seattle’s iconic attractions, The Great Wheel was a repeat for us from our last visit. I think this is one the boys would do every time. The ride includes three revolutions on the ferris wheel so you have a few chances to take in the view and grab pictures. Bang for the buck at $14* a person? Decent. Unlike other attractions, the time is constrained so you can’t spend more time if you want but it is pretty fun. After the ride, taking the time to stroll the piers is great for people watching, sunset viewing, and good food.
The historic Pike Place Market is an eclectic collection of shopping and food. Make no mistake, it’s complete mayhem, especially on the weekend. If crowds aren’t your thing, you’ll have to pick your timing carefully. Sadly, we didn’t. This is a scenario where being loose with your plans can backfire. We ended up there on a Saturday. Big mistake. The few shops we were interested in visiting were almost inaccessible due to the crowds so we only managed to visit Metsker Maps before we were overstimulated.
Sunset, a Seattle pier, and the Great Wheel cap off a great day.
Crystal Mountain Gondola
For all of their desire for urban fun, our excursion out of the city to ride the gondola at Crystal Mountain was what resonated with the boys the most. Possibly because it was the last thing we did and they were “citied” out at that point. But it is the one place they kept asking to be able to stay longer.
We weren’t prepped for a big hike but we ended going a good ways down the trail once we were at the top. The view of Mount Rainier is spectacular. The option to have lunch at the top allowed us to maximize our time, and thus, gondola ticket prices of $23*.
After days of urban-packed adventures, retreating to the trail was a hit for Fred and George.
And the little details
The little details are what really shapes your trip, yes? While the attractions are fun, spending time together exploring is the true draw.
In addition to marquis attractions, our Seattle adventure included playing card games while waiting for meals, testing the strategy card game Fred is developing, a little geocaching, the solar eclipse, hanging out with friends from Atlanta who happened to be in Seattle at the same time, and walking through local parks.
Those details fill in the experience and allowing space in the trip for them makes for a well-rounded adventure.
Running into Atlanta geocaching friends in Seattle!
Next time?
As you can imagine, this is the tip of the iceberg of adventures to have in Seattle. It’s a jam-packed city with tons of things to see and do. We managed all of this in about five days with plenty of down time. Both boys love Seattle and I know we’ll be back. What will we do differently next time?
Conceptually:
A little more planning. Some high-demand activities require reservations well in advance. Our free-wheeling approach to travel meant we weren’t able to do a few things that would have been really cool.
These attractions are not an inexpensive prospect. A City Pass ticket package can help reduce the overall cost but it’s something we didn’t make use of because we weren’t certain what we’d be doing. We were winging it. Again, that can backfire. In this case, it meant we paid more than we had to for some experiences.
We’ll try to go during off-peak times to minimize crowds, something that’s a challenge for all three of us.
Places:
We were eyeing a float plane tour to Vancouver Island but the boys had neglected to bring their passports. (Insert mom sigh here.) With that off the table we were hoping to do a flight over Puget Sound or around Mount Rainier. Those needed reservations well in advance so it was a no-go for us.
Take a SegWay Tour around the city. We had a couple of opportunities but the times available were less than fabulous because of that whole “winging it” thing.
The Space Needle in infrared from the harbor. A nice way to get a different view of the city.
*Note: Ticket prices are always subject to change and can vary by season. Click through the links provided to get to the attraction websites that will always have up to date pricing.
It’s the second weekend in September and I’m in the center of the arena at the Virginia City Camel and Ostrich Races once again. After our brief interviews for the spectators, Joe Hedrick, the man in charge of the show, has just given us the command to head to our respective chutes. As we work our way through the soft sand, the butterflies in my stomach amplify their gentle fluttering to a full-fledged rave. At the last moment I decide to ditch my over-shirt and media badge as potential distractions. I fling them carelessly to the side of the arena and approach the back gate of the chute. Chute number one opens and I get the first look at my mount.
All smiles before the action starts.
Back in the chute
My camel rocks back and forth vigorously. I lie to myself that this isn’t a problem and feign confidence as I climb up the flimsy wall of the starting gate. Once on top of the narrow, one-inch-thick wall, I see that my beast is still rocking and crammed as far away from me in the chute as he can possibly be. I reach for the handler’s firm, stabilizing grasp while attempting to let go of the back wall. It takes a couple of false starts to release my grip on the only solid thing around. I squat, hoping to slide onto the camel. I struggle to gauge the distance with his movement. I make the mistake of looking down. I freeze for a moment. And now I’m hyper-aware that I’m taking too long to mount. These camel races are fast-paced and the organizers like to keep things moving.
Joe Hedrick giving the pre-races death-and-destruction speech.
After a couple more attempts to mount gracefully, I accept that grace will not be part of the equation here. I take a deep breath and lunge for it. It’s the only thing to do at this point. I don’t have my timing quite right with the swaying beast so I overshoot a little and end up almost in the next chute. My foot making contact with another camel’s back in lane number two is the only thing that keeps me from going over. I quickly wrestle myself into position, trying to regain focus after my inelegant mounting attempt.
The acrobatics involved in mounting the camel.
I confirm with the handlers that I’m ready to ride. My camel is swaying even more vigorously now. Holding on fiercely with my legs and arms, I wait for the trumpet call and the gates to burst open. Just before the big moment, something sprays me and my two fellow camel riders from behind. The startling splash makes me turn back to see what was happening. Of course, at that very moment I was turned backwards, the gates opened.
My camel bursts out to the left as much as forward with the first big push of his strong legs. The force sends my disoriented body to the right, clenching the front ring for dear life. I’m all-too-aware that pressure on the side rail of the saddle is ill-advised. The sudden forward motion, along with that jolt to the side, also sends my torso upwards. Fortunately my noggin does not hit the rigid header to the starting gate. It does hit the wooden chute number sign, though. Thankfully, it swings.
Charging out of the chute, thankful the sign overhead didn’t knock me silly.
I have milliseconds to regain my composure as my mount races headlong down the first stretch of the u-shaped arena. He pulls out strong and in the lead. As he approaches the turn, he slows. I watch as the other racers’ camels run wide around the arena. To save distance, I pull my camel to the left, close into the turn to make up some time. It doesn’t work. He has other ideas. As in, “Nah, I’m going to just jog this one in.”
I watch as the other racers approach the finish line and I begin to laugh. I can hear Monty, one of the camel handlers, behind me trying to get him to run. I’m urging my camel forward with my right heel hard but fruitlessly. My many years of horseback riding clearly do not impress this animal.
Monty hard at work trying to motivate my ride.
I laugh my way across the finish line thinking what a marvelously bizarre day it has been. I hand the lead rope to the handler and prepare to perform a one-legged dismount from my unmotivated camel. I learned how to do this last year so at least that isn’t a surprise. Once again I plummet six feet to the arena floor from the back of this beast. With more skill this time, although not gracefully by any stretch of the imagination.
As for the unexpected splash at the start, it turns out that a wind gust blew a puddle of rain water off of the canopy overhead. My competitor in chute number two took the brunt of it and was completely soaked. And she thought her camel had peed on her. No two camel races are the same.
Nope. Nothing doing. This camel ain’t playing today.
prove more challenging. Just to be clear, I would rather attempt six-foot leaps off of a camel’s back all day than try to run.
For the love of camel racing
Back in the center of the arena for the post-ride interviews, now being 1-1 in my camel racing career, I lamented my loss to the crowd. And to the question if I’d ever do it again? Oh, yes. You bet your sweet camel I’ll do it again.
The fun doesn’t end in the arena. Whether you’ve won or lost, there’s always the Camel Hump Ball to enjoy and cut loose with the camel handlers like Monty.
When I lived in the southeast, I spent a good bit of time immersing myself in the nature of the Great Smoky Mountains. That included becoming a Certified Southern Appalachian Naturalist (SANCP), through a program that gave me the opportunity to understand the intricacies of the natural environment there.
Then I moved to Nevada. Other than the basic concepts of plant and animal identification and behavior, there’s very little that translates between the lush forests of the southeast and the high desert where I now live. That means I’m now starting from scratch to keep my inner naturalist satisfied.
Unlike he SANCP program I completed in Tennessee, there really isn’t a Nevada naturalist program that serves my purposes in the northern part of the state. That leaves me piecing together my understanding of the environment here on my own. As you can imagine, that takes some effort which means I was delighted when I discovered the Nevada Native Plant Society. It’s an active, engaged group that offers a lot of field trip opportunities around the state.
My first foray with them was to visit the area that will become the Walker River State Recreation Area. The park will be a phenomenal 12,000 acres, but most importantly, that includes 28 miles of riparian habitat. In a desert state, protecting the waterways that are our lifeline is crucial so this acquisition into the Nevada State Parks system has many implications beyond recreation for you and me.
In the field
I couldn’t pass up the chance to join knowledgeable naturalists on a visit to the area while it is still in its infancy as a budding park. These folks really know their plants and I love soaking up their naturalist mojo. For a newbie, the word jumble of unfamiliar plant names gave way to trying to grasp the broader picture of the types of plants making their way in the high desert.
The biggest take-away for me was understanding how to see the hidden treasures of the desert. This is a completely different world. I’ve spent a good bit of time in the desert but not in this context, in which I’m trying to understand it at the same level I got to know the Smokies. It requires recalibrating from the frequently obvious blooms and features in lush forests to learning how to spot little beauties smaller than a pinky nail in a vast open landscape.
Searching for desert gems. Believe it or not, they were everywhere. You have to know how to look for them though.
This seemingly dainty flower somehow manages to survive in the harsh Nevada landscape.
Looking out across the high desert, you wouldn’t think so much would be hiding.
Thick leaves and luscious color, but small! I’m completely smitten with the tough little survivors of the Nevada desert.
The rugged Nevada landscape seems no place for delicate beauty, yet what you can find here is astonishing. This exclosure was built to study the impact of grazing on the plant life.
One of the larger flowers, the lupine.
Lunch break in the Nevada version of an oasis, a cottonwood-lined stream.
I loved discovering how alive with color the desert is.
Mad love
I was thoroughly blown away by the collective knowledge of the people in the group. They are dedicated to their craft. The folks from the Walker Basin Conservancy have been working relentlessly to protect this area. For those of us on the outside of this process, we often take for granted our existing parks. Hanging out with these inspiring people reminded me how much energy and dedication goes into making a new park. I’m very grateful for their efforts. I’m looking forward to enjoying the fruits of their labors.
In the meantime, I’ve got a LOT to learn about Nevada’s ecosystems! See you in the field.
It’s heartening to know there are dedicated people working to protect our lands and provide a way for us to enjoy it in the form of a park.
It’s another severe clear summer day on the Comstock. I’m at the end of the bar nursing a cold beer. I’ve earned a drink or two to quench my thirst after racing camels all day in the high desert. Gazing out the picture window, I contemplate the vastness of the Nevada desert from the comfort of the dark saloon. On my barstool, safe from the glaring sun outside, I consider the majesty of the rugged landscape. A landscape that pioneers seeking their fortune in precious metals once braved with far less resources than I have at my disposal today.
As I take my next sip of frothy goodness, in strolls a camel. Quite nonchalantly.
Celebrating an unexpected victory at the 57th annual Virginia City Camel and Ostrich races.
The serene late-afternoon atmosphere at the Bucket of Blood Saloon is no more. Patrons fawn over the beast, burying their hands in his soft fur. He doesn’t stay long. It’s already been a long day and he needs to rest up for another round of races tomorrow. He’ll return to C Street and his adoring fans at the saloon tomorrow for another appearance.
This scene might surprise a lot of folks but it’s par for the course in Virginia City, especially after 57 years of camel racing history here. The fact that the saloon in question is an icon of the west, notorious for its bloody past during the mining boom of the mid-1800s, is also the norm.
It’s also a place that doesn’t take itself too seriously. Because here you can race camels. Or ostriches, or zebras for that matter. And it all started as a practical joke by the editor of the Territorial Enterprise, the same publication that gave Mark Twain his start. In an environment as unforgiving as Nevada, having a sense of humor is a must.
I knew I had to be a part of this tradition the moment I learned about it, oddly enough, thanks to a moving truck with a mural of the races emblazoned in its flanks. Three years later, I found myself clinging to a camel’s saddle rail with one hand while pumping my fist in the air as I crossed the finish line, having vanquished my challengers.
Truthfully though, I climbed onto the camel’s back in the rickety starting gate simply hoping I wouldn’t end up dead or injured. Between the warnings of possible death and destruction by the camel handlers and watching riders fall all day, my turn in the final round left me plenty of time to reconsider my life choices.
And now, sitting in the Bucket of Blood, celebrating my unexpected camel-racing victory, I’m utterly taken in with this place. The combination of Virginia City and camel racing is a modern-day twist on the old wild west. The textures of the old buildings, the volatile history, the quirky experiences, and the genuinely friendly locals—this is why I keep coming back.
It’s not every day you get to walk on a brand-new interstate. Pristine pavement. Sharp, fresh striping. Hundreds of bicyclists, roller-skaters, skateboarders, and runners whizzing by you.
I had that very opportunity thanks to the Nevada Department of Transportation (NDOT). The last three, newly-constructed miles of I-580 in Carson City opened to traffic last week. Before our new freeway extension opened the unrelenting abuse of automobile traffic, NDOT held a freeway walk for pedestrians like us to celebrate its completion.
A tribute to herding and aspens highlights the history of our area.
What? Nature Girl? Celebrating a freeway?
Yep. I sure am.
Even for someone as outdoor-minded as myself, I understand the value of cities. Aside from cultural experiences of art and performance, in modern times our lifestyles and supply chains rely on condensing services and offerings. That means moving things and people where they need to be most efficiently in and between those hubs.
This extension of the freeway takes pressure off of a congested area in the city for those who simply need to get through. Whether it’s locals going to work every day or tractor trailers hauling goods, there are valid reasons for smoothing the flow of traffic with a bypass highway. As for those who say it allows tourists to bypass our businesses, well, it’s our job to present a place that travelers want to stop and visit, isn’t it? And they’re not going to want to if the roads are so clogged they can’t get into town. I know when I’m traveling, I won’t stop in a city that is too frustrating to navigate.
Even the supports of overpasses are involved in making this a pleasant experience for everyone.
Investing in our city
One of the intangible reasons I love this event was that it helps us as locals feel like it is ours. It highlights that it benefits us most of all and brought all kinds of people together to share pride in our city. That pride is crucial to a thriving community. Pride gives us the motivation to invest emotionally, defend it, and work tangibly to improve our daily lives as residents. And as a new-ish Nevadan, this event gave me an opportunity to dive deeper into melding with my new community.
As for the freeway itself, many fuss over the investment in artwork along our roadways as being frivolous. I strenuously disagree. What we surround ourselves with, the environment we create, says a lot. The freeway artwork says we are investing in our city for the long term. That message is important among us as residents, but also to visitors.
Tourism is Nevada’s biggest industry. We can’t underestimate the value of the aesthetic in drawing visitors who leave their tourism dollars behind. The alternative to that artwork is a bland, industrial landscape that makes both residents and visitors wonder why anyone would want to be here.
We live in a beautiful place. Our man-made infrastructure needs to reflect that.
Motorcycling
My personal relief in this freeway extension is my biggest reason for celebrating it. This extension means I’m safer as a motorcycle rider when I need to get south of town, whether it’s for business or the pleasure of riding the Sierra passes. Until now, I faced extremely high-risk surface streets to accomplish that task. We’re talking huge six-lane roads with bad pavement, intense cross-traffic, and often blind intersections and driveways. It’s a rider’s nightmare.
Freeways are certainly not where the fun of riding lies for me but there are times when that’s a more appropriate route. The controlled traffic, going in the same direction, without intersections, means I can get to where I’m going with much less stress and risk.
Nevada Highway Patrol and Carson City Sheriffs Office motorcops spent time enjoying the event with us.
Having never walked an interstate before, I had no idea the engineering involved. Inside that barrier is a massive piston designed to absorb energy in the event of an impact.
Carson City paramedics getting silly at the end of the day.
What I’d like to see next
I’m happy that I’ll be safer as a rider in town now. But watching the amazing turnout of people at this event has me thinking the next step for this lovely city is giving us a robust system of non-motorized-friendly paths and trails to move around town.
More artwork celebrating our landscape and making the drive appealing to residents and visitors alike.
I was thrilled to see signs along the way that helped us all understand the history of our city better.
I’d love to see more access to non-motorized-friendly paths for the safety of my walking, running, cycling, and skating friends.
Today marks the 111th anniversary of the 1906 Antiquities Act which gives presidents the ability to designate national monuments. National monument designations preserve historic landmarks, historic and prehistoric structures, and other objects of historic or scientific interest. It is the starting point to potential national park status later on. Some of our greatest treasures—places like Grand Canyon, Zion, Grand Teton, Olympic, Arches, Acadia, and Death Valley—started out as monuments. Others remain as monuments today: Devil’s Tower, the Statue of Liberty, Giant Sequoia, Grand Staircase-Escalante, and Mount St. Helens, to name a few.
Right now, 27 monument designations are under scrutiny by our new Secretary of the Interior, Ryan Zinke, and things aren’t looking up for them. The list is heart-breaking. In an age of unchecked development, protecting these remarkable places is more important than ever.
The politics surrounding the threat to these monuments can only be thwarted by vigorous and unrelenting support for them from the outdoor-loving public. That’s where you come in. Please join the public comment period that is active through July 10th to help keep the last 20 years of progress in public land preservation from being undone. You can do that by visiting monumentsforall.org, managed by the Center for Western Priorities. They’ll be collecting and recording comments to submit to the regulations.gov site so nothing gets lost in the mix as our monuments face political scrutiny.
In the meantime, I hope you will indulge me in a trip down memory lane.
Looking back
The pressure on our monuments has me reviewing the times I’ve spent in them. I’m not one to keep count so I had to go back and take roll of those I’ve been to. My list includes: Bandelier (NM), Canyon de Chelly (AZ), Craters of the Moon (ID), Devil’s Tower (WY), Dinosaur (UT/CO), Fort Matanzas (FL), Fort Pulaski (GA), Fort Sumter (SC), Giant Sequoia (CA), Gila Cliff Dwellings (NM), Grand Staircase-Escalante (UT), Kasha-Katuwe Tent Rocks (NM), Petroglyph (NM), Rio Grande del Norte (NM), Statue of Liberty (NJ/NY), Sunset Crater (AZ), Vermillion Cliffs (AZ), White Sands (NM), and Wupatki (AZ).
Some of these I visited so long ago I don’t have images to share. I do know that my life would be less for not having been to them. I also know I have dozens on my travel wish list. And I haven’t yet had a chance to visit Gold Butte or Basin and Range, two newer monuments that celebrate the rugged history and landscape of my Nevada.
In my efforts to curate my time in our national monuments, here are a handful of memories from our adventures…
National monuments, like Dinosaur, have played a huge role in my explorations with Fred and George.
The textures of Fort Pulaski have brought me back to visit repeatedly over the years. The sobering history reminds me why preserving these monuments is so important.
Petroglyph National Monument preserves antiquities as the development in Albuquerque closes in around it.
Fred and George were “blown away” by Craters of the Moon.
The ruins of Wupatki in infrared. National monuments preserve our history and heritage.
Fort Matanzas in Florida was one of the first national monuments Fred and George experienced.
The drama of Sunset Crater National Monument never ceases to amaze.
The expanses of Vermillion Cliffs are nothing short of awe-inspiring. Quite worth preservation, don’t you think?
Why are these important?
While national monuments serve as stepping stones to park status for some units, those that remain monuments offer opportunities for a rich experience, usually without the crowds that national parks tend to attract. They’re typically a sweet spot of preservation without being over-loved. Help us maintain this process. Tell your legislators to keep the monument designations as they stand. Visit Monuments For All to have your voice heard.
What fellow bloggers have to say about National Monuments
Check out these posts from other #MonumentsForAll bloggers:
My Blubaru and I, along with her Thule top-hat, have been through a lot together.
For quite a few years my trusty Subaru Forester has served as the main adventure-mobile for my explorations with Fred and George. She’s been in semi-retirement as life has moved on but this week “Blubaru,” as she’s known, is headed out for her first cross-country trip in a couple of years. George and I will be trekking from Georgia to Missouri for a cubing competition and then on to Nevada. Unlike earlier trips, it won’t be an extended camping expedition but we intend to enjoy the beauty of a good road trip in a very different context than in years past.
Looking Back
My poor little Forester has put in a LOT of miles and taken a lot of abuse as the boys and I criss-crossed the United States and Canada for weeks on end. None of those extended trips would have been possible without the addition of a roof box. Think small car, two growing boys, a metric ton of camping gear, and sometimes the Disapproving Beagle. A little extra storage capacity was in order, wouldn’t you say?
I promise, all of this (and then some) fits into 16 cubic feet.
That’s where the Thule Atlantis 1600XT comes in. I refined my packing plan for our treks over the years but it largely involved all our camping gear going in the roof box. Much of that gear is very heavy. That means I performed countless feats of acrobatics loading and unloading that box. I could frequently be seen precariously perched on Blubaru’s door frame while hoisting twenty-pound cots into the depths of the roof box… among about a million other bits and pieces of camping paraphernalia.
One time, for kicks and giggles, I took inventory of everything I managed to put in the box for our trips: One four-man tent with garage vestibule, a two-man tent, three regular cots, a backpacker’s cot, three sleeping pads, three pillows, a table, three camp chairs, two compact camp chairs, three backpacks, two hammocks and strap sets, a hammock tarp, three sleeping bags, and a tent stake mallet. Plus various other odds and ends crammed into the last remaining bits of space.
Yes, I’ve been seen sitting on top of the box to close it on many occasions.
It’s staggering what you can fit into sixteen cubic feet! On more than one occasion in chatting with fellow campers, they would stand with mouths agape when they realized what I could cram into that small space. Many didn’t believe until they watched me do it.
Moving Forward
This roof box has ventured tens of thousands of miles through every state in the lower 48 and the nine southern Canadian provinces. But times are a-changin’. The structure of my adventures has changed dramatically and the box has simply been gathering dust for two years. Plus, my permanent gimpiness means loading gear on the roof is not the best idea anymore. So it’s time to hand off the trusty Thule to someone who will make use of it for their own fabulous adventures.
That’s where you come in. Tell me a story. Tell me why you want it, what you will do with it, where you plan on taking it. Tell me why you’re the best candidate to continue the adventures emblazoned on the box. What stickers will you be adding? What vehicle will it play top-hat to now? You know me. What will catch my attention most is humor, creativity, and your passion for exploration.
Submissions via this Google Form are due by midnight (PDT) on June 30th. I’ll announce the winner—the person who entertained me the most—on social media on July 14th. Oh, and you’ll have to get started on your new adventures with the Thule Atlantis 1600XT by coming to Nevada to get it! Your other option is to propose an epic adventure to meet somewhere for the handoff… but it’ll have to be really good. 😉
[Update: Congratulations to Scott of Just Get Out More for being the one to carry the Thule torch. Happy adventuring!]
My Thule Atlantis 1600XT is going to ride off into the sunset with someone. How would you use it?
With Nevada Magazine’s year-long commitment to covering Nevada State Parks, I finally realized my silliness. I fully intend to visit all the parks anyway, just like I did in Georgia, so why not add the fun of the passport challenge? That means I’m starting from scratch in pursuit of filling my Nevada State Parks Passport. It won’t pain me in the least to return to the parks I’ve already visited. They’re fantastic and well worth multiple trips, just like Georgia’s parks. It could prove a bit more challenging though given that Nevada is almost twice the size of Georgia. That’s why I make no promises how long this effort will take me!
Storm brewing over Ward Charcoal Ovens.
Iconic view at Berlin-Icthyosaur State Park.
Nevada State Parks
With 23 parks (some with multiple units), the Nevada State Parks system extends across the various landscapes and history of the Silver State… and it’s a BIG state. It’s an exciting year to explore them with Governor Sandoval’s Explore Your Nevada initiative well underway. Two new parks are in the works and existing parks will see improved amenities in response to visitor feedback and growing demand for outdoor recreation as more and more people discover Nevada’s allure.
And much like the National Parks Passport, the Nevada State Park’s passport has a page dedicated to every park that you can stamp as a sort of travel journal. It also includes a brief description of the parks as well as a guide to the amenities available at each. The program is free and if you collect 15 stamps, you earn a year’s pass to all Nevada State Parks.
Historic Buckland’s Station
Panorama at Cathedral Gorge State Park.
Seeing it all
Visiting Georgia’s state parks showed me the value of seeing all of the units. It gave me a complete experience in the state that included all of the various landscapes and broad history that make Georgia what it is. It gave me a sense of place and belonging in the state I called home for 22 years.
I hope to have that same experience in Nevada as I get to know my new state as well as I know Georgia. The landscape, history, and people here are quite different so this is a blank slate for me. I’ll admit I’m a bit giddy at the prospect because I find myself in a unique position—in which I’m more than a visitor but not a native or long-time resident. I’m already in love with this state; I’ve seen enough to know this is a special place. But now I get to explore as a new Nevadan with fresh eyes and ready to invest in learning and developing the same depth of experience I had in Georgia.
Oh Peach State, how do I love thee? Let me count the ways—mountains, swamps, beaches, rivers, pinelands, farms, waterfalls, museums, gardens, rich history, beautiful people. The list goes on and on. You hold so many special places and experiences within your boundaries.
I know I left. I’m sorry. It was time. We spent over two decades together—living life and weathering its ups and downs, raising two boys, hiking, exploring, geocaching, adventuring, motorcycling.
The view over Lake Chatuge from Georgia’s highest point, Brasstown Bald.
I was young when I moved there. Fresh out of college. Yet you’ve always known I longed for the solitude and vastness of the West. But you, my dear Georgia, you will always hold a special place in my life and memories. We have a deep and lasting emotional connection. And even now you still hold my best friends and my sons in your bosom.
I hope you know leaving was no easy task. That leaving doesn’t diminish what was. It’s necessary to weave a new tapestry for myself now. And I’m not leaving for good really. You know I return often to your lush landscape to embrace the people I hold dear.
Our years together have been amazing. I’ve criss-crossed you in the name of exploration and experience, most of the time with my beloved Fred, George, and Disapproving Beagle in tow. I’ve spent countless hours reveling in your state and national parks. My sons have blossomed in our time exploring there together, their education enriched by what you offer.
Your geology provides the framework for varying landscapes across the state. From the piedmont that forms the foothills of the Appalachians to the barrier islands on the coast, you offer endless possibilities for vastly different adventures:
Fred and George trying their hands at fencing at the Georgia Renaissance Festival. (Fairburn)Geocaching adventures with Fred and George have taken us all over the state. (Skidaway Island State Park)The Disapproving Beagle has explored almost as much of Georgia as I have. With the Chattahoochee River practically out the back door of my Georgia outpost, adventure is always just around the corner. (Old Roswell Mill/Vickery Creek)Georgia’s state park system includes gems like the waterfalls of Sitton’s Gulch. (Cloudland Canyon)An urban nature oasis… Old Fourth Ward.One of my very favorite Georgia trails is the approach to the Len Foote Hike Inn. (Amicalola Falls)Georgia is home to Going Caching, one of the best geocaching events around.Paddling in the Okefenokee Swamp. (Fargo)Georgia is home to magical gardens like the Atlanta Botanical Garden (Atlanta), Gibbs Gardens (Ball Ground), the State Botanical Garden of Georgia (Athens), and Callaway Gardens (Pine Mountain).Geocaching at Cockspur Island near Tybee Island. (Fort Pulaski National Monument)Nature and history meet at Fort King George Historic Site. (Darien)Georgia’s state parks offer well-appointed developed campsites that make family camping easy and fun.Hands-on experience learning about the history of gold mining in Georgia. (Consolidated Gold Mine, Dahlonega)The Dungeness Ruins of Cumberland Island National Seashore. (St. Marys)I can’t begin to tell you how much time we’ve spent on Atlanta’s pet rock. (Stone Mountain)From mountains to swamps, there’s no shortage of adventures to be had in Georgia. (George L. Smith State Park)Georgia’s opportunities for experiential education are a goldmine for homeschoolers. (Jimmy Carter National Historic Site)Fred and George have hiked more miles in Georgia than they likely remember. Georgia offers trails suitable for all ages and ability levels. (Chattahoochee Nature Center)A hiker and backpacker paradise, the Appalachian Trail begins in the north Georgia mountains.One of my favorite Georgia pasttimes? Riding out in search of fabulous barbecue. (Amos’ BBQ, Ball Ground)
A handful of images to summarize over two decades of adventures. They don’t quite do the Peach State justice but I do feel I’ve done Georgia justice in discovering what it has to offer. I hope you find it as exciting as I have. Happy adventuring!
I’m a fan of proper training. The value of learning from qualified instructors is not lost on me, particularly when it comes to photography and motorcycling.
I recently branched out, though, and ventured to South Carolina for the BMW U.S. Rider Academy’s Women’s 1-Day Off-Road Adventure Foundations course. It may be one of the most valuable things I’ve ever done for my riding and for myself in general.
It was quite an honor to spend the day building off-road skills with these folks.
Exercises
Our day began with a short introduction in the classroom. Our coach needed to assess our skills and we riders needed a sense of camaraderie before riding together. The class was small, only three riders, including me. BMW’s intent for the course was to be all women, including the instructor. Unfortunately, the sole female instructor at the U.S. Rider Academy suffered an injury and couldn’t teach the class. We had Ricardo instead, along with Rob assisting. I was disappointed initially that it wasn’t all female but Ricardo and Rob quickly overcame my hesitation with their professionalism, approachability, and supportive attitudes.
In the classroom, they set a tone of “Challenge by Choice” for the entire training course. Ricardo and Rob made it clear they were going to push us but we had the ultimate say in what we attempted and what we didn’t. We would build our skills on our own terms by moving just past the edge of our abilities and comfort zones. That was both exciting and a little frightening.
Ricardo in action, demonstrating a solo lift.
Getting started
We began the hands-on part of the day with:
Balanced walk-arounds. This confidence-building exercise helped us get dialed into the weight and balance of our bikes by finding the balance point and keeping it there while we moved around it.
Raising the bikes on their center stands.
Working from both sides on mounts and dismounts.
Lift technique demonstrations, both solo and buddy.
My steed for the day, an F700GS like mine but full seat height and no bar risers which was a slightly different geometry to master.
On the bikes
Session 1
In our first riding session we tackled:
Moving around the bike side saddle. We worked through a series of positions beginning with placing a knee on the saddle, moving that leg to the opposite side of the bike, riding side saddle, then swapping foot positions so we could stand on the opposite peg, before returning to a normal seated position. Gonna keep it real here… when we started this exercise I thought I was in way over my head. I thought “If they’re starting with this, I’m in trouble. This class is way beyond my skill level.” Guess what? That warm up was super easy and a successful confidence-builder.
Slow riding. Refining our skills at low speeds, where most drops happen.
Trials stands. Getting as close as we could to a balanced stop before using the throttle to restabilize.
Weaves. Slow riding around cones with hard turns and learning where to position our bodies.
Circles. The coaches added this in to help us get past our struggles with how far we needed to move our bodies off the side of the bikes. After this exercise we went back to practicing weaves and were much more capable.
Practicing camel humps with track stands.
Session 2
After lunch on the BMW campus, we got back on the bikes for:
Washboards. Understanding the limits of the bike’s suspension and how to handle it.
Ruts. Controlling the bike solely by using the pegs.
Camel humps (with track stands). Working through body position transitions in quick succession over humps. I really struggled with track stands even though I have pretty decent balancing skills on pavement. I can still hear Ricardo saying “That’s not a track stand! You didn’t stop!” With love and support , of course. 🙂
Enduro runs. A chance to ride through trees and unexpected obstacles not dictated by a man-made exercise.
Rest breaks included South Carolina sun and plenty of snacks and drinks from BMW U.S. Rider Academy.
Session 3
After a brief break there was still more to come:
Another enduro run. Much longer and across the full campus, without knowing anything about what to expect. It was all new terrain to integrate the skills we’d been working on all day.
Emergency braking. I struggled with this more than I feel I should have. It was late in the day and I was tired. I initially mentioned to my classmates this would have been much more valuable earlier on. Afterwards, I realized that mastering emergency braking when completely exhausted was, in fact, the best time to do it because that’s when you make mistakes. And having it be second nature at your worst point was actually the goal of the exercise.
Trying other bikes. I rode a BMW F700GS most of the day. My own F700GS “Evie” is lowered and has handlebar risers. This bike was standard height without risers. At the end of the day, I got the chance to ride the F800GS as well as the R1200GS. I really shouldn’t have ridden the 1200. Can you say “Come to Mama”? I wished I’d been riding it all day!
Lifting. Our last exercise was a chance to practice lifting the bikes. We had some inadvertent practice during the day, of course. However, the opportunity to practice lifts as a focused exercise instead of rushing to clear the training course was very helpful.
Our enduro runs put our newly-developed skills to practical use.
Quality
I was thoroughly impressed with the quality of the course. The instructors fully grasp that most of the challenge behind mastering these skills is confidence followed by understanding what these machines are capable of doing. The pace of guided progression through confidence building was spot on, especially with the overtone of “challenge by choice” set from the beginning.
Our main instructor, Ricardo, is a motor cop and international BMW instructor. One of the hallmarks of a good instructor is the ability to deviate from the plan when necessary to give his or her students what they need. Ricardo is a very skilled instructor in that sense as well as an expert rider. Our course was also overseen by logistics dude Rob, who managed the mechanics of the motorcycles and assisted as an instructor. He was encouraging, helpful, and pushed us appropriately when needed.
My classmate, Patty, describes the collection of obstacles and terrain as an impressive off-road playground. I like how she puts that. I certainly felt like a little kid riding with abandon that day! She adds that she enjoys the physical challenge and mental focus it requires to participate in the class. It’s an intense day in the saddle. And worth every minute.
Practicing riding through ruts.
What I took away
A massive boost in confidence. Riding on sketchy terrain builds skills on pavement and off-road and means you’re ready for all sorts of scenarios that are thrown your way unexpectedly. My street riding improved as a result of this class.
I know what skills I need to work on most now. Some of the exercises went well for me, others I’ll need a lot more time to master.
Using BMW’s bikes is the way to go. It frees you to push yourself without concern over damaging your own bike. That’s a huge benefit. It takes away many layers of mental obstacles in improving your riding.
This is a huge physical challenge: Off-road riding is a different beast in terms of the physical challenge it presents as a rider. While I did fine and was able to complete all of the exercises, boy I was sore afterwards! My bum limb, “Frankenleg,” presents an additional obstacle to my physical stamina. Towards the end of the day, I could feel it giving out from fatigue. But I wanted every ounce of this experience and I couldn’t allow it to hold me back. It became a battle of wills of the you-don’t-get-to-quit-now type, but I clearly need to work more intently on rebuilding its strength.
Chasing Patty’s tail on an enduro run.
Why women only
One of the discussions throughout the day is why having a women’s-only class is important.
Gary Hardin, the Chief Motorcycle Instructor of the U.S. Rider Academy at the time, says that they could have offered the standard one-day class but felt it was more important to directly address female rider concerns. So they invited women rider influencers to participate in a standard one-day course and give honest feedback. What came out of the focus group afterwards was a thumbs-up on the class content and structure but the desire for the addition of the last couple of exercises that were included in our course at the end of the day.
So essentially, the women’s class is what is offered in the standard one-day, finessed to include more of what women riders are looking to improve. For me, while I don’t mind training alongside men, the dynamic is quite different. It’s often competitive and that’s not why I’m there.
Being a minority in the motorcycling world, the opportunity to be surrounded by others who understand the distinct challenges it is to be a woman rider is valuable. The overtone of our small group was absolute respect for one other and acknowledgment that we’ve all had a different path to this point in our riding.
Teamwork is required when a rider’s low-suspension bike gets hung on a hump.
Thoughts from the students
Patty, having taken the two-day course in the past, said:
“Although I’m accustomed to riding with the guys, I thought it would be a nice change of pace to take a class reserved for women. It’s always fun to meet other women who ride and even better those who are interested in off-road riding. I enjoyed hearing other ladies’ experiences and opinions about gear, motorcycles, and travel.”
My classmate Charlene was comforted by the knowledge that there would be others who understand where she was coming from in her return to riding after a couple of years off. She said she was excited by the idea that she had nothing to prove and could focus on getting back to something she loves.
Of course, given how much I enjoyed this experience, I asked Mr. Hardin if a two-day women’s course is in the works. He said he would love to see that happen if enough interest can be generated. Even beyond the two-day course, he would like to offer a class similar to their advanced off-road class in which they spend time off of the bikes giving travel tips for anyone wanting to adventure ride outside of the country. That particular class is only offered as an extension to graduates of the two-day off-road curriculum.
Mr. Hardin added that not many know that the U.S. Rider Academy offers private one-on-one and group instruction. That means if you desire the female group dynamic but the course schedule doesn’t fit yours, you have the option of private instruction or arranging your own all-female training.
While I’m glad my first course at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy was all women, I won’t be waiting around for the women’s two-day course to be offered. I’ve got too much to learn to let that hold me up. One course is never enough when you’re intent on mastering a pursuit. And I know I still have so much to learn and refine.
Final thoughts
In review-type posts, I typically like to offer suggestions for improvement, even when I enjoy the product or experience immensely. This time, the only aspect I’d like to see improved is pre-course information on what to bring, what to expect, etc. I give all other aspects of the course top marks:
The pace, structure, and content of the of the course are really well thought out, in my opinion.
The campus and obstacles were great.
We had plenty of opportunities for breaks, hydration, and snacks.
The machines ran well and Rob responded quickly to any requests to tweak clutch levers and what-not.
The staff was absolutely top-notch.
But the biggest factor here is that BMW has taken the initiative to embrace the needs and challenges of women riders as separate from our male counterparts. It’s not that women’s concerns are better or worse, or more or less important, they’re just different. And given our minority in the motorcycling community, those considerations are often overlooked. BMW is acknowledging that. I’m a fan.
Ok, you’ve made it this far! Here’s a little behind-the-handlebars glimpse of riding at the BMW U.S. Rider Academy…
The benefits of travel are well known but hard to measure. For those of us who make travel a top priority—a lifestyle we build the rest of our days around—the travel inspiration quotes that litter the internet are truths. Social media may have turned those words into platitudes for the casual tourist or vacationer, but for us they capture the sentiment of why we are driven to explore.
Whether casual vacationer, business traveler, or dedicated explorer, we bring something unspoken back with us from every journey, regardless of its purpose. Sometimes that thing is small; other times it’s life-changing. Each experience builds our character in some way. That experience can have a huge impact when we visit a place very different from where we spend most of our time.
The mañana spirit
Bajacalifornianos aren’t the only people who embrace the mañana spirit, but it is that mindset I’ve brought back home from Baja. Of course, mañana is “tomorrow” in Spanish and it’s an “it-can-wait” sense of priorities. It’s about embracing joy, peace, and balance first. It’s the antithesis of busyness and doing for doing’s sake.
My first experience with this attitude towards life was during my initial explorations of New Mexico over 20 years ago. I’ve danced and wrestled with it since, unable to maintain the rhythm of it. This trip to Baja was different for many reasons, though. Foremost, over two decades since my first taste of the mañana spirit, I know what I’m about and what my time is worth.
So after immersing myself in Baja’s bosom and watching her people, I think I finally grasp what it takes to live my life from that place. It’s the place where there’s no need to rush around frantically and no need for busyness. In this place I can keep my priorities straight. This is the place I can live a life that is rich and rewarding without being fancy or complicated.
The slow, easy-going mañana spirit isn’t aloofness or lack of consideration, as it may seem to outsiders at first. It’s knowing when and how to be productive—being thoughtful about how you spend your time. On this trip, I realized that the mañana spirit is a kind of natural mindfulness, the thing I’ve been trying to make my second-nature mindset for years. It’s the elusive concept that so many of us use apps, books, classes, and therapists to try to master. In Baja, it’s just there. And it’s been my most significant lesson yet.
The thing about the mañana spirit is that in the end, everything gets done that needs to be done. And everything else? Well, it didn’t need to be on the to-do list to begin with.
Gravel-floored roadside cafes in Baja offer life lessons if you give them the chance.
When the mañana spirit meets a timetable
On the return journey motorcycling north, I sat with my dear man in a tiny roadside cafe in Cataviña. It was supposed to be a quick taco stop since we had a lot of ground to cover and not a lot of daylight to work with in the short days of December. It was the only cafe for many miles. No cell signal. No gas station. Not much of anything by American standards, really.
We were the only customers the entire time we were there. We sat and waited, listening to the sounds of the abuela chopping fresh ingredients just a few yards away. The sound of her knife thumping on the cutting board. The sizzle of the grill. Her lyrical voice as she chatted with her husband. We watched sparrows flit around inside the building, stopping to peck for food. Dogs wandered in and out of the cafe, their paws leaving prints in the gravel floor.
While preparing our tacos, she also squeezed a glass of fresh orange juice for me. It ran down my throat in a smooth river, relief from the heat we’d been riding through that day. We took in the details of the cafe, building our Spanish vocabulary by reading the signs and listening to the conversation, marveling at the vast amount of Coca-Cola branding, and watching the ravens come and go from their perch on top of the tall cactus outside.
It took quite a while to get our tacos. And they arrived freshly made, with care, by somebody’s grandmother. That lunch stop was about being immersed in our adventure in a way that we couldn’t do without embracing the mañana spirit. My parting reward that day as she pieced together my broken Spanish into something comprehensible was her patient smile and beautiful laugh, something I might not have gotten from her or noticed if I hadn’t taken the time to understand life in Baja.
Adventure on, friends.
Intimate experiences are available everywhere in Baja if you give yourself the chance to understand the mañana spirit.
I’ve published a birthday post every year since 2011. It’s a reflection of my outgoing year as I consider the new year ahead. In that first birthday post, I confessed to my behind-the-scenes health issue. Little did I know how much worse things would get for me. It’s ok to laugh ironically, I promise. I have at least some sense of humor about it now. A pained humor, but humor none the less.
Rereading about the last five years I can’t ignore that my body has been through a lot. Some things that weren’t blog worthy, along with the things I did share. Some issues are related to aging, but many lie outside of that—mainly substantial injuries.
The details aren’t actually important but the big picture is that my body is one hell of a mess. And you know what? I don’t care. I’m going to keep doing what I do until I simply can’t anymore. And when I can’t do things the way I do now I’ll find another way. Because this is who I am and this is what I love.
I don’t want stuff. I want life. To me that means exploring, seeing the world, meeting people different from me. That’s why this year I’m celebrating with adventure. This is the spirit of eating the cupcake and that’s why I’m currently headed to Baja on my motorcycle.
I turned 45 today. I’m not waiting until a “big” birthday—one with a zero. I’m doing it now. Because I know too damn well there’s no guarantee I’ll see 46. I feel I’ve dodged some pretty big bullets lately and I’m not going to squander my chance to make the most of my life. None of us know what’s around the bend, do we? So grab life, embrace it, live it.
In the big scheme of things, year 44 for me has been one of transitions and making bold decisions for myself. That’s the long play—the choices that lead to the life I want in the long term. Having launched a new chapter in my life, and having survived a lot of things in the last five years, I’m celebrating the right now of still being here and in fairly (I use the term loosely) good health at 45.
I’m doing this now before I hurt too much to do it anymore. Or I’m not here to do it at all.
As part of weaving the tapestry I want, today I woke up in Death Valley. This place has grown more and more important to me in the last few years, on par with the Great Smoky Mountains and Great Sand Dunes. I’m eating the cupcake. And savoring it.
The Birthday Series
Fifty-four: Using My Powers For GoodFifty-three: Wake Up CallFifty-two: Full CirclesFifty-one: The Messy MiddleFifty: Leaning Into LifeForty-Nine: Keep Moving ForwardForty-Eight: Be Where Your Feet AreForty-Seven: The Most Important QuestionForty-Six: GratitudeForty-Five: Celebrating with AdventureForty-Four: Eat the CupcakeForty-Three: The Depth of LifeForty-Two: Another Year of PerspectiveForty-One: Another Notch on the Birthday BeltForty: Getting Real
